Double Cross Sweater Dress – Free Crochet Pattern

Sharing is caring!

Double Cross Sweater Dress – Free Crochet Pattern

The Double Cross Sweater Dress – Free Crochet Pattern is copyrighted by I Need It Crochet. You may not copy, share, change, or sell the pattern itself. Also, you may not claim this pattern as your own. All pictures contained in this pattern fall under the copyright and may not be used. 

Finished items made from the Double Cross Sweater Dress – Free Crochet Pattern belong to you, and you may do what you wish with them. If you choose to sell them on Etsy, I would very much appreciate it if you credited me as the pattern designer.

Or… Just scroll down to see it for free!

Click the button below to purchase the Double Cross Sweater Dress crochet pattern from my Etsy shop.

When I designed the Double Cross Cardigan, I noticed that the stitch pattern really complimented my shape. It was then I decided that I must incorporate the design into a sweater dress. And I’m so glad I did. 

The Double Cross Sweater Dress features the spiked double crochet stitch worked in a lovely, textured criss-cross pattern. Custom-sized sleeves and waist shaping let you make a beautiful sweater dress that you can feel confident and beautiful in.

How To Crochet The Double Cross Sweater Dress – Free Crochet Pattern

Notes:

Ch1 & ch2 at the beginning of a row is never considered a stitch. 

Ch3 at the beginning of a row is considered a dc.

Ch4 at the beginning of a row is considered a tr. 

You can find a photo tutorial for the Spike Double Crochet stitch here.

The model above (that’s me) has a 38” bust and is wearing a size M. 

Choose your size according to your largest measurement (bust/waist) and how you would like the top to fit. For a close-fitting top, choose the size closest to your largest measurement. For a loose top, choose a size 2-3” larger. 

This pattern includes instructions for waist shaping, but this is optional.

Double Cross Sweater Dress – Free Crochet Pattern

Gauge Swatch

I have written two sizes of gauge swatch for this pattern. If you are making a plus size sweater, I recommend making a larger swatch to ensure that you have achieved an accurate gauge. When making very large projects, sometimes our tension can change which is why you should continue to measure your project as you work. 

With 5mm Hook

Ch 19 (37). 

1. Dc in 4th ch from hook and each ch across. Turn.   – 17 (35) st
2. Ch3. Dc in next st and each st across. Turn.   – 17 (35) st
3. Ch3. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st (see Figure 1). Dc in 2nd skipped st (Note: This dc should wrap around the spdc you just worked. See Figure 2). Spdc in 1st skipped st (see Figure 3). *Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** across until there is only 1 st left unworked. Dc in last st. Turn.   – 17 (35) st
4. Ch3. Dc in next st and each st across. Turn.   – 17 (35) st
5. Ch3. Dc in next 3 sts. *Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. Dc in next 3 sts.** Repeat from * to ** across until you have only 1 st left unworked. Dc in last st. Turn.   – 17 (35) st

Repeat rows 2 – 5 until you have a total of 10 (21) rows. 

Your gauge swatch should measure 4 ½” (9”) wide by 4 ½” (9”) high. If your swatch does not meet gauge, try again with a different size hook. Width is important for this pattern but height is less so. If your width meets gauge but height is a little off, that is fine. 

Instructions For The Double Cross Sweater Dress – Free Crochet Pattern

This pattern is written to be seamless. The body of this sweater is worked from the top down. The shoulders, upper front, and upper back are worked in rows, while the rest of the sweater from the underarms down will be worked in the round. 

With 5mm hook (or hook used to obtain gauge)

Front Shoulders

1. (WS) Ch 18 (22, 23, 27, 28, 31, 32, 36, 40). Dc in back hump of 4th ch from hook and each ch across. Turn.   – 16 (20, 21, 25, 26, 29, 30, 34, 38) st
2. (RS) Ch3. Dc in next st and each st across. Turn.   – 16 (20, 21, 25, 26, 29, 30, 34, 38) st
3. –     4.    Repeat row 2. 
4. Ch3. Dc in next 13 (17, 18, 22, 23, 26, 27, 31, 35) sts. Ch1, sk1 st. (2dc, tr) in last st. Ch 17 (17, 23, 23, 29, 29, 35, 35, 35). Bind off, leaving a tail for attaching later.   – 18 (22, 23, 27, 28, 31, 32, 36, 40) st + 17 (17, 23, 23, 29, 29, 35, 35, 35) ch.

Your project should now look like Figure 1 below. This is the left front shoulder piece. 

Figure 1

Next we will make the right front shoulder piece. 

1. (WS) Ch 18 (22, 23, 27, 28, 31, 32, 36, 40). Dc in back hump of 4th ch from hook and each ch across. Turn.   – 16 (20, 21, 25, 26, 29, 30, 34, 38) st
2. (RS) Ch3. Dc in next st and each st across. Turn.   – 16 (20, 21, 25, 26, 29, 30, 34, 38) st
3. –     4.    Repeat row 2. 
4. (Ch4, 2dc) in 1st st. Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next st and each st across. Bind off.   – 18 (22, 23, 27, 28, 31, 32, 36, 40) st 

Your project should now look like Figure 2 below. Join the long chain from the left front shoulder to the 1st st (the beginning ch4) of the last row of the right front shoulder. To do this, I just pulled the yarn through the top loops of the stitch and made a knot. Your project should look like Figure 3 below. 

It may be helpful to place a stitch marker in the starting chain of each shoulder. You will use this to find the starting chains when counting rows in a later step. 

Double Cross Sweater Dress – Free Crochet Pattern

Back Shoulders

We will now build the back shoulders, working off of the front shoulders so we don’t have to seam the top. Lay out your project with the wrong side facing you and the starting chains facing up. Join your yarn in the first ch of the left shoulder. 

1. (WS) Ch3. Dc in next ch and each ch across. Turn.   – 16 (20, 21, 25, 26, 29, 30, 34, 38) st
2. (RS) Ch3. Dc in next st and each st across. Turn.   – 16 (20, 21, 25, 26, 29, 30, 34, 38) st
3. –     4.    Repeat row 2. 
4. Ch3. Dc in next 13 (17, 18, 22, 23, 26, 27, 31, 35) sts. Ch1, sk1 st. (2dc, tr) in last st. Ch 17 (17, 23, 23, 29, 29, 35, 35, 35). Bind off, leaving a tail for attaching later.   – 18 (22, 23, 27, 28, 31, 32, 36, 40) st + 17 (17, 23, 23, 29, 29, 35, 35, 35) ch.

Your project should now look like Figure 4. 

Figure 4

Join your yarn in the 1st ch of the right shoulder. 

1. (WS) Ch3. Dc in next ch and each ch across. Turn.   – 16 (20, 21, 25, 26, 29, 30, 34, 38) st
2. (RS) Ch3. Dc in next st and each st across. Turn.   – 16 (20, 21, 25, 26, 29, 30, 34, 38) st
3. –     4.    Repeat row 2. 
4. (Ch4, 2dc) in 1st st. Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next st and each st across. Do not bind off.   – 18 (22, 23, 27, 28, 31, 32, 36, 40) st 

Join the long chain from the left back shoulder to the 1st st (the beginning ch4) of the last row of the right back shoulder. Your project should look like Figure 5 below. 

Figure 5

Upper Back

We will now continue working the upper back from where we left off with the back shoulders. Since you did not bind off on the last row, just slip your hook back into the loop (as seen in Figure 4) and turn. 

Note: You will work the rows below until you have achieved the proper amount of rows required for your arm size (counting from the first row of the shoulder, aka the starting chain). 

You may choose whichever arm size you wish, regardless of body size. To determine your arm size, use a flexible measuring tape to measure all the way around the largest part of your upper arm (bicep). For fitted sleeves, choose the arm size closest to your measurement. For looser sleeves, choose a size 1-2” larger. 

For arm sizes 9 ½”( 10 ½”, 11 ½”, 12 ½”, 13 ½”, 14 ¾”, 15 ¾”, 16 ¾”, 17 ¾”, 19, 20, 21) in circumference, work a total of 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) rows.

5. Ch3. Dc in next 13 (17, 18, 22, 23, 26, 27, 31, 35) sts. Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next 23 (23, 29, 29, 35, 35, 41, 41, 41) sts and chs. Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in each st to end. Turn.   – 53 (61, 69, 77, 85, 91, 99, 107, 115) st
6. (WS) Ch3. Dc in next 13 (17, 18, 22, 23, 26, 27, 31, 35) sts. Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next st. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. *Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** over next 12 (12, 18, 18, 24, 24, 30, 30, 30) sts. Dc in next st. Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in each st to end. Turn.   – 53 (61, 69, 77, 85, 91, 99, 107, 115) st
7. (RS) Ch3. Dc in next 13 (17, 18, 22, 23, 26, 27, 31, 35) sts. Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next 23 (23, 29, 29, 35, 35, 41, 41, 41) sts. Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in each st to end. Turn.   – 53 (61, 69, 77, 85, 91, 99, 107, 115) st
8. (WS) Ch3. Dc in next 13 (17, 18, 22, 23, 26, 27, 31, 35) sts. Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next 4 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. *Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** over next 6 (6, 12, 12, 18, 18, 24, 24, 24) sts. Dc in next 4 sts. Ch1, sk1st. Dc in each st to end. Turn.   – 53 (61, 69, 77, 85, 91, 99, 107, 115) st
9. (RS) Ch3. Dc in next 13 (17, 18, 22, 23, 26, 27, 31, 35) sts. Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next 23 (23, 29, 29, 35, 35, 41, 41, 41) sts. Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in each st to end. Turn.   – 53 (61, 69, 77, 85, 91, 99, 107, 115) st

Measurement Check: Your project should now be 14” (16”, 18”, 20”, 22”, 24”, 26”, 28”, 30”) wide, and 4 ½” high. 

Repeat rows 7-10 until you have achieved the proper amount of rows required for your arm size (counting from the first row of the shoulder, aka the starting chain). You may choose whichever arm size you wish, regardless of body size. If you would like to make the arms larger than what I have outlined below, simply add more rows. You will need to add 1 row per inch of arm circumference. 

For arm sizes 9 ½”( 10 ½”, 11 ½”, 12 ½”, 13 ½”, 14 ¾”, 15 ¾”, 16 ¾”, 17 ¾”, 19, 20, 21) in circumference, work a total of 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) rows. Bind off. Your project should now look like Figure 6 below. 

Figure 6

Upper Front

We will now work the upper front the same way we worked the upper back. Turn your work so that the right side is facing you and the last row of the front shoulders is facing up. Join your yarn in the first stitch and follow the instructions for the Upper Back, but do not bind off at the end. Your project should now look like Figure 7 below.

Figure 7

Fold your project in half lengthwise so that it looks like Figure 8 below. Using the yarn tail (seen on the right in Figure 8), join the last stitch of the last row on the upper back to the first stitch of the last row on the upper front. Then using the loop on your hook (shown on the left in Figure 8), slip stitch into the first stitch of the last row on the upper back. Turn. 

Figure 8

Double Cross Sweater Dress – Free Crochet Pattern

Lower Body

Even Rounds

We will now work the lower body in the round, but we will still turn our work at the end of each round. I have numbered the rounds below to correspond with the row numbers for the upper body. Begin with the round number that comes after the row number you last worked. For example: If you finished the upper body with a repeat of row 8, begin with round 9 below. If you finished with a repeat of row 10, begin with round 7 below. 

7. Ch3. [Dc in next st and each st across until you come to the next ch1. Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next st. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. *Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** until you have only 1 st left before the next ch1. Dc in next st. Ch1, sk1 st.] Repeat from [ to ] once. Dc in each remaining st. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 106 (122, 138, 154, 170, 182, 198,  214, 230) st 
8. Ch3. *Dc in next st and each st across until you come to the next ch1. Ch1, sk1 st.** Repeat from * to ** 3 more times. Dc in each remaining st. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 106 (122, 138, 154, 170, 182, 198,  214, 230) st
9. Ch3. [Dc in next st and each st across until you come to the next ch1. Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next 4 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. *Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** until you have only 4 sts left before the next ch1. Dc in next 4 sts. Ch1, sk1 st.] Repeat from [ to ] once. Dc in each remaining st. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 106 (122, 138, 154, 170, 182, 198,  214, 230) st
10. Ch3. *Dc in next st and each st across until you come to the next ch1. Ch1, sk1 st.** Repeat from * to ** 3 more times. Dc in each remaining st. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 106 (122, 138, 154, 170, 182, 198,  214, 230) st

The sweater modeled in the pictures does include some waist shaping, but it is up to you whether you use it in your project. Personally, I have quite a size difference between my bust, waist, and hips. So waist shaping was essential to get the look and fit I was aiming for. 

If you do not want to do any waist shaping, simply repeat rounds 7-10 until your sweater is the desired length, minus 2 ¾”. You should end on a repeat of round 7 or 9. Then, you will skip the waist shaping section and proceed to the bottom trim section below. 

Waist Shaping

If you would like to add some waist shaping, you will begin by repeating rounds 7-10 until your sweater is long enough to sit at the fullest part of your bust. For my sweater, I worked until it was about 11” long. Then, you will begin working the decrease rounds below. 

We will begin by placing a stitch marker at the halfway point of your last round. Count 53 (61, 69, 77, 85, 91, 99, 107, 115) sts from the beginning of the round and place a stitch marker in the last counted stitch. Remember that ch1 in between stitches count as a stitch. 

Decrease Rounds

The decrease rounds are numbered to correspond with the round numbers in the previous section. If you finished the previous section with a repeat of round 8, begin with round 9 below. If you finished with a repeat of round 10, begin with round 7. 

7. Ch2, dc in next st (counts as dc2tog). [Dc in next st and each st across until you come to the next ch1. Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next st. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. *Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** until you have only 1 st left before the next ch1. Dc in next st. Ch1, sk1 st.] Dc in each st until you reach the st marker. Dc2tog. Move st marker to last st worked. Repeat from [ to ] once. Dc in next st and each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.
8. Ch2, dc in next st (counts as dc2tog). *Dc in next st and each st across until you come to the next ch1. Ch1, sk1 st.** Repeat from * to ** once. Dc in each st until you reach the st marker. Dc2tog. Move st marker to last st worked. Repeat from * to ** twice. Dc in next st and each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn. 
9. Ch2, dc in next st (counts as dc2tog). [Dc in next st and each st across until you come to the next ch1. Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next 4 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. *Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** until you have only 4 sts left before the next ch1. Dc in next 4 sts. Ch1, sk1 st.] Dc in each st until you reach the st marker. Dc2tog. Move st marker to last st worked. Repeat from [ to ] once. Dc in next st and each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn. 
10. Ch2, dc in next st (counts as dc2tog). *Dc in next st and each st across until you come to the next ch1. Ch1, sk1 st.** Repeat from * to ** once. Dc in each st until you reach the st marker. Dc2tog. Move st marker to last st worked. Repeat from * to ** twice. Dc in next st and each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn. 

Repeat rounds 7-10 until you have achieved the desired waist measurement. Each decrease round will decrease your measurement by approximately half an inch. For example if you would like your waist measurement to be 2” smaller than your bust, then work a total of 4 decrease rounds. If you would like your waist to be 4” smaller than your bust, then work a total of 8 decrease rounds. 

Once you have decreased down to your waist measurement, you will work even rounds until you have the proper length. (See the Even Rounds section above). For my sweater, I kept trying it on as I worked and began working increase rounds once it passed my belly button and was approximately 20” long. Be sure to keep moving your stitch marker up to the current round, as you will be using it again in the increase rounds. 

Increase Rounds

The increase rounds are numbered to correspond with the round numbers in the previous section. If you finished the previous section with a repeat of round 8, begin with round 9 below. If you finished with a repeat of round 10, begin with round 7. 

7. (Ch3, dc in same st). [Dc in next st and each st across until you come to the next ch1. Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next st. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. *Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** until you have only 1 st left before the next ch1. Dc in next st. Ch1, sk1 st.] Dc in each st until you reach the st marker. 2dc in next st. Move st marker to last st worked. Repeat from [ to ] once. Dc in next st and each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.
8. (Ch3, dc in same st). *Dc in next st and each st across until you come to the next ch1. Ch1, sk1 st.** Repeat from * to ** once. Dc in each st until you reach the st marker. 2dc in next st. Move st marker to last st worked. Repeat from * to ** twice. Dc in next st and each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn. 
9. (Ch3, dc in same st). [Dc in next st and each st across until you come to the next ch1. Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next 4 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. *Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** until you have only 4 sts left before the next ch1. Dc in next 4 sts. Ch1, sk1 st.] Dc in each st until you reach the st marker. 2dc in next st. Move st marker to last st worked. Repeat from [ to ] once. Dc in next st and each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn. 
10. (Ch3, dc in same st). *Dc in next st and each st across until you come to the next ch1. Ch1, sk1 st.** Repeat from * to ** once. Dc in each st until you reach the st marker. 2dc in next st. Move st marker to last st worked. Repeat from * to ** twice. Dc in next st and each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn. 

Repeat rounds 7-10 until you have achieved the desired hip measurement. As with the decrease rounds, each increase round will add approximately half an inch. Be sure to measure your progress and/or try on your sweater at intervals to make sure you are getting the desired fit. 

Once you have reached the desired hip measurement, work even rounds until you have achieved the desired total length minus 2 ¾”. Be sure to end on a repeat of round 7 or 9. Then, proceed to the bottom trim section below. 

Bottom Trim

1. Ch3. Dc in next st and each st and ch sp around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn. 
2. –    6.    Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn. 
3. Ch1. Sc in 1s st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Bind off. 

Double Cross Sweater Dress – Free Crochet Pattern

Sleeves

The sleeves are worked in the round, but we will still turn at the end of each round. These sleeves are written to be tapered. 

With the right side facing you, join your yarn at the bottom of your arm hole. Work the instructions below that are marked with your chosen arm circumference. The instructions below will give you an upper arm circumference of 9 ½” (10 ½”, 11 ½”, 12 ½”, 13 ½”, 14 ¾”, 15 ¾”, 16 ¾”, 17 ¾”, 19”, 20”, 21”), and a wrist circumference of 6 ½” (7 ¾”, 7 ¾”, 7 ¾”, 9 ½”, 9 ½”, 9 ½”, 9 ½”, 9 ½”, 11”, 11”, 11”). 

1. (RS) Ch1. Working around the armhole, place 2sc in the end of each row. Ss to join to 1st sc. Turn.   – 36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80) st
2. (WS) Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80) st

Repeat round 2 until you have a total of 14 rounds (make sure to include the 1st sc round). We will now begin adding decrease rounds to taper the sleeve. Some sizes will decrease in certain rounds while others will not. Be sure to pay attention and only follow the round instructions labeled with your size. 

Note: I have somewhat long arms, so I wrote these sleeves to be 19” long when finished. If you would like your sleeves to be longer or shorter than mine, simply add or subtract a few repeats of round 2. But be sure to end on an even number of rounds. Your last repeat should be worked from the wrong side. 

15. (RS) All Sizes (Dec Round): Ch2, dc in next st (counted as dc2tog). Dc in next 16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78) st
16. (WS) All Sizes: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78) st
17. Sizes 9 ½” – 13 ½”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/s, n/a) st

Sizes 14 ¾” – 21” (Dec Round): Ch2, dc in next st (counted as dc2tog). Dc in next n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, na, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76) st

18. Sizes 11 ½”, 12 ½”, 13 ½”, & 20” (Dec Round): Ch2, dc in next st (counted as dc2tog). Dc in next n/a (n/a, 19, 21, 23, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 34, n/a) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, 40, 44, 48, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 70, n/a) st

All other sizes: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 34 (38, n/a, n/a, n/a, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, n/a, 76) st

19. Sizes 11 ½”, 12 ½”, & 13 ½”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, 40, 44, 48, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/s, n/a) st
    All other sizes (Dec Round): Ch2, dc in next st (counted as dc2tog). Dc in next 15 (17, n/a, n/a, n/a, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 33, 36) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 32 (36, n/a, n/a, n/a, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 68, 74) st

20. Sizes 12 ½”, 17 ¾”, 20”, & 21” (Dec Round): Ch2, dc in next st (counted as dc2tog). Dc in next n/a (n/a, n/a, 20, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 29, n/a, 32, 35) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, 42, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 60, n/a, 66, 72) st
    All other sizes: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 32 (36, 40, n/a, 48, 50, 54, 58, n/a, 66, n/a, n/a) st

21. Sizes 9 ½”, 10 ½”, & 12 ½”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 32 (36, n/a, 42, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st
    All other Size (Dec Round)s: Ch2, dc in next st (counted as dc2tog). Dc in next n/a (n/a, 18, n/a, 22, 23, 25, 27, 28, 31, 31, 34) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, 38, n/a, 46, 48, 52, 56, 58, 64, 64, 70) st

22. Sizes 12 ½”, 17 ¾”, 19”, 20”, & 21” (Dec Round): Ch2, dc in next st (counted as dc2tog). Dc in next n/a (n/a, n/a, 19, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 27, 30, 30, 33) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, 40, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 56, 61, 61, 68) st
    All other sizes: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 32 (36, 38, n/a, 46, 48, 52, 56, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st

23. Sizes 11 ½”, 12 ½”, & 13 ½”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, 38, 40, 46, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st
    All other sizes (Dec Round): Ch2, dc in next st (counted as dc2tog). Dc in next 14 (16, n/a, n/a, n/a, 22, 24, 26, 26, 29, 29, 32) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 30 (34, n/a, n/a, n/a, 46, 50, 54, 54, 60, 60, 66) st

24. Sizes 9 ½”, 10 ½”, 14 ¾”, & 15 ¾”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 30 (34, n/a, n/a, n/a, 46, 50, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st
    All other sizes (Dec Round): Ch2, dc in next st (counted as dc2tog). Dc in next n/a (n/a, 17, 18, 21, n/a, n/a, 25, 25, 28, 28, 31) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, 36, 38, 44, n/a, n/a, 52, 52, 58, 58, 64) st

25. Sizes 9 ½” – 13 ½”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 30 (34, 36, 38, 44, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st
    Sizes 14 ¾” – 21” (Dec Round): Ch2, dc in next st (counted as dc2tog). Dc in next n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 21, 23, 24, 24, 27, 27, 30) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 44, 48, 50, 50, 56, 56, 62) st

26. Sizes 10 ½”, 11 ½”, 14 ¾”, & 15 ¾”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (34, 36, n/a, n/a, 44, 48, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st
    All other sizes (Dec Round): Ch2, dc in next st (counted as dc2tog). Dc in next 13 (n/a, n/a, 17, 20, n/a, n/a, 23, 23, 26, 26, 29) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 28 (n/a, n/a, 36, 42, n/a, n/a, 48, 48, 54, 54, 60) st

27. Sizes 9 ½”, 10 ½”, 12 ½”, & 13 ½”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 28 (34, n/a, 36, 42, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st
    All other sizes (Dec Round): Ch2, dc in next st (counted as dc2tog). Dc in next n/a (n/a, 16, n/a, n/a, 20, 22, 22, 22, 25, 25, 28) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, 34, n/a, n/a, 42, 46, 46, 46, 52, 52, 58) st

28. Sizes 9 ½”, 11 ½”, & 14 ¾”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 28 (n/a, 34, n/a, n/a, 42, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st
    All other sizes (Dec Round): Ch2, dc in next st (counted as dc2tog). Dc in next n/a (15, n/a, 16, 19, n/a, 21, 21, 21, 24, 24, 27) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (32, n/a, 34, 40, n/a, 44, 44, 44, 50, 50 56) st

29. Sizes 10 ½”, 11 ½”, 12 ½”, & 13 ½”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (32, 34, 34, 40, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st
    All other sizes (Dec Round): Ch2, dc in next st (counted as dc2tog). Dc in next 12 (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 19, 20, 20, 20, 23, 23, 26) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 26 (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 40, 42, 42, 42, 48, 48, 54) st

30. Sizes 9 ½”, 10 ½”, & 14 ¾”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 26 (32, n/a, n/a, n/a, 40, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st
    All other sizes (Dec Round): Ch2, dc in next st (counted as dc2tog). Dc in next n/a (n/a, 15, 15, 18, n/a, 19, 19, 19, 22, 22, 25) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, 32, 32, 38, n/a, 40, 40, 40, 46, 46, 52) st

31. Sizes 9 ½” – 13 ½”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 26 (32, 32, 32, 38, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st
    Sizes 14 ¾” – 21” (Dec Round): Ch2, dc in next st (counted as dc2tog). Dc in next n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 18, 18, 18, 18, 21, 21, 24) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 38, 38, 38, 38, 44, 44, 50) st

All sizes:

32. (Dec Round) Ch2, dc in next st (counted as dc2tog). Dc in next 11 (14, 14, 14, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 20, 20, 23) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 24 (30, 30, 30, 36, 36, 36, 36, 36, 42, 42, 48) st
33. Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 24 (30, 30, 30, 36, 36, 36, 36, 36, 42, 42, 48) st
34. Ch3. Dc in next 2 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. *Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 24 (30, 30, 30, 36,  36, 36, 36, 36, 42, 42, 48) st
35. Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 24 (30, 30, 30, 36,  36, 36, 36, 36, 42, 42, 48) st
36. Ch2 (does not count as a st). Sk1 st. Spdc in next st. Dc in skipped st. Spdc in 1st st. Dc in next 3 sts. *Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. Dc in next 3 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 24 (30, 30, 30, 36, 36, 36, 36, 36, 42, 42, 48) st
37. Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 24 (30, 30, 30, 36, 36, 36, 36, 36, 42, 42, 48) st
38. Ch3. Dc in next 2 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. *Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 24 (30, 30, 30, 36, 36, 36, 36, 36, 42, 42, 48) st
39. Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 24 (30, 30, 30, 36, 36, 36, 36, 36, 42, 42, 48) st
40. (WS) Ch2 (does not count as a st). Sk1 st. Spdc in next st. Dc in skipped st. Spdc in 1st st. Dc in next 3 sts. *Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. Dc in next 3 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 24 (30, 30, 30, 36, 36, 36, 36, 36, 42, 42, 48) st
41. (RS) Ch1. Sc in 1st st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Bind off.   – 24 (30, 30, 30, 36,  36, 36, 36, 36, 42, 42, 48) st

Neckline

Lastly, we will finish the neckline with a round of simple single crochet. With the right side facing you, attach your yarn anywhere on the neckline. 

1. Ch1. Sc around the neck edge in the following manner: 
   – Place 2sc in the end of each dc row. 
   – Place 3sc in the end of each tr row. 
   – Place 1sc in the bottom of each ch st. 
   – Once you have worked your way around the entire neckline, ss to join to 1st st. Bind off. 

Weave in your ends, and you’re done! 

I hope you loved the Double Cross Sweater Dress – Free Crochet Pattern, and I look forward to seeing all of your beautiful pictures on Ravelry!  

If you’d like to know when I post new patterns and tutorials, head on over to my Facebook and Instagram and give me a like and a follow!

If you enjoyed The Double Cross Cardigan – Free Crochet Sweater Pattern, you may want to check out my other designs!

Double Cross Sweater Dress – Free Crochet Pattern

And until next time… Happy Hooking! 😉