Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Little Late Pullover

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Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Little Late Pullover

The Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Little Late Pullover is copyrighted by I Need It Crochet. You may not copy, share, change, or sell the pattern itself. Also, you may not claim this pattern as your own. All pictures contained in this pattern fall under the copyright and may not be used. 

Finished items made from the Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Little Late Pullover belong to you, and you may do what you wish with them. If you choose to sell them on Etsy, I would very much appreciate it if you credited me as the pattern designer.

Or… Just scroll down to see it for free!

Lion Brand Shawl In A Ball: I have been in love with this yarn for years. I longed to create another design for it, but alas, I couldn’t come up with something that would really do the yarn justice – until now. And then, of course, it was discontinued. 

Frustrating to say the least, but it seems to be par for the course. Eventually, all of our favourite yarns become a thing of the past. Even though this design with this yarn was a little late, it is still one of my favourites. Sometimes beautiful things need just a little extra time.

Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Little Late Pullover

How To Crochet The Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Little Late Pullover

Notes:

Ch1 & ch2 at the beginning of a row is never considered a stitch. 

Ch3 at the beginning of a row is considered a dc.

All increases and decreases should be worked through the top 2 loops of the stitch. 

The model above (that’s me) has a 38” bust, a 41” lower body circumference, and is wearing a size L. 

Choose your size according to your lower body circumference (approximately 22” below the shoulder) and how you would like the top to fit. For a close-fitting top, choose the size closest to your measurement. For a loose top, choose a size 1-2” larger. 

If making a longer sweater, use our hip circumference as reference.

If you choose to leave the edges raw as I have, the sweater will have a bit more stretch to it. 

The pictures in this pattern do not depict a true representation of row or stitch counts.

Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Little Late Pullover

Gauge Swatch

The instructions below will create a gauge swatch that is 4” (8”) wide by 4” (8 ”) high. If you are making a larger size and/or you sometimes find your tension is off, I recommend making the larger swatch. But, of course, that is completely up to you. The width and height of your swatch are both important for this pattern. The stitch width will determine the length of your sweater body and width of your sleeves, and the stitch height will determine the width of your sweater body and length of your sleeves. So if your gauge is off for either width or height, it will affect your final project measurements. 

If you can only achieve gauge in one dimension, I would choose height. Then the body size will still be correct, but you may have to adjust the length once you get to the shoulder section. 

With 6mm hook

1. Ch 17 (33). Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn.   – 16 (32) st
2. Ch1. Hdc in 1st st. Hdc in 3rd lo in each st across until there is 1 st left. Hdc in top loops of  last st. Turn.   – 16 (32) st

Repeat row 2 until you have a total of 10 (20) rows. Your swatch should measure 4” (8”) W by 4” (8 ”) H. 

Instructions

This pullover is worked sideways. We will begin at the left sleeve cuff, continue with working the sleeve, then the left shoulder. Next, we will work the center front, shaping the neckline as we go. Then, we will work the center back, followed by the right shoulder. Finally, we will work the right sleeve and cuff. The entire sweater is seamless. 

With 6mm hook (or hook used to obtain gauge)

Left Cuff

1. Ch8. Sc in bottom bar of 2nd ch and each ch across. Turn.   – 7 St 
2. Ch1. Sc in blo of 1st 6 sts. Sc in both loops of last st. Turn.   – 7 st
3. Ch1. Sc in both loops of 1st st. Sc in blo of each st across. Turn.   – 7 st 

Repeat rows 2 & 3 until you have a total of 26 (26, 26, 30, 30, 30, 34, 34, 34) rows. Your project should now look similar to Figure 1 below. Fold the bottom row up so that it sits behind your top row. Ss the ends of the cuff together, working through both top loops of your last row and both bottom loops of your first row (see Figure 2 and Figure 3). Turn your cuff right side out (see Figure 4). Do not bind off.

Figure 1

Left Sleeve

The sleeve is worked in rounds, but you will turn at the end of each round (except round 1). We will begin by working row 1 into the bottom of the sleeve cuff. 

Note: When beginning the hdc rounds, it is important to ch1 loosely. You want the ch1 to be tall enough that it won’t drag the hdc stitches down, making the bottom of your sleeve too short. If you find it difficult to ch1 loosely, it’s acceptable to ch2, so long as you don’t count the ch2 as a stitch. 

Also, we will be working the rounds slightly different than usual. After round 2, I will instruct you to skip the 1st st and begin the round in the next st. Then when you have worked your way around, you will finish the round in the 1st st that you skipped at the beginning. The 1st st is always the st you joined to at the end of the previous round, and the stitch you chained from at the beginning of the current round. I have provided photos below to help you. 

1. Ch1. Work 1 sc into the end of each row of the cuff. Ss to join to 1st st. Do not turn.   – 26 (26, 26, 30, 30, 30, 34, 34, 34) st
2. (RS) Ch1. 2hdc in 1st st. Hdc in each st around until you have 1 st left. 2hdc in last st. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 28 (28, 28, 32, 32, 32, 36, 36, 36) st
3. (WS) Ch1. Sk 1st st (marked in yellow in Figures 5, 6 & 7). 2hdc in next st (marked in blue in Figures 5, 6 & 7). Hdc in 3rd lo of each st around until all sts are worked except 1st skipped st (see Figure 7). 2hdc in 1st skipped st. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 30 (30, 30, 34, 34, 34, 38, 38, 38) st

Measurement Check: Repeat round 3 until you have a total of 21 rows. Your sleeve should now be 10” long. When laid flat, the widest end of the sleeve should be 8 ¼” (8 ¼”, 8 ¼”, 8 ¾”, 8 ¾”, 8 ¾”, 9 ¼”, 9 ¼” ,9 ¼”) wide. If you find that either of these measurements are far off, you may want to start over with a different sized hook. 

Repeat round 3 until you have a total of 47 rounds (counting from sc round 1). You should now have a stitch count of 118 (118, 118, 122, 122, 122, 126, 126, 126), and your project should look similar to Figure 8. Your sleeve should now be 20 ½” long and the widest part of the sleeve should be 14 ¾” (14 ¾”, 14 ¾”, 15 ¼”, 15 ¼”,  15 ¼”, 15 ¾”, 15 ¾”, 15 ¾”) wide.

Figure 8

Left Shoulder

We will now work the left shoulder. First, we will add some length to the bottom of the sweater. As written, the finished sweater will be 21 ½” (21 ½”, 21 ½”, 22”, 22”, 22”, 22 ½”, 22 ½”, 22 ½”) from shoulder to bottom hem. If you would like your sweater to be longer, simply add more chains to the beginning. Keep in mind this will alter your final stitch count. Make a note of how many chains you have added, as you will need to know that later. 

1. (RS) Ch28 (or more if making a longer sweater). Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (see Figure 9). Making sure the RS is facing you, hdc in 3rd lo of next st and each st around, including the st containing the starting ch (see Figure 10). Hdc in bottom bar of each ch across (see Figure 11). Turn.   – 172 (172, 172, 176, 176, 176, 180, 180, 180) st
2. (WS) Ch1. Hdc in 1st st. Hdc in 3rd lo in each st across until 1 st left. Hdc in top loops of last st. Turn.   – 172 (172, 172, 176, 176, 176, 180, 180, 180) st

Repeat row 2 until you have a total of 7 (9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23) shoulder rows, counting from row 1. Your project should now look similar to Figure 12. Place a stitch marker in the 1st and last sts of the last row. This will help you count your rows in the next section. 

Figure 12

Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Little Late Pullover

Front

Decrease Rows

1. (WS) Ch1. Hdc in 1st st. Hdc in 3rd lo of next 82 (82, 82, 84, 84, 84,  86, 86, 86) sts (see note below if you are making a longer sweater). Working in top loops: *Yo, insert hook in next st, pull up a loop (see Figure 13).** Repeat from * to ** 2 more times (see Figures 14 & 15). Yo, pull through 2 loops (see Figure 16). Yo, pull through all 6 loops (see Figure 17). Turn.   – 84 (84, 84, 86, 86, 86, 88, 88, 88) st

Note: If you are making a longer sweater, this stitch count will change. To figure out how many sts to work, take your final stitch count for the shoulder rows and divide it in half, then subtract 4. Once you finish row 1 of the decrease rows, you should write your final st count on a piece of paper to keep track of your st counts from here forward.

1. (RS) Ch1, hdc in next st (counts as hdc2tog). Hdc in 3rd lo of each st across until 1 st left. Hdc in top loops of last st. Turn.   – 83 (83, 83, 85, 85, 85, 87, 87, 87) st
2. Ch1. Hdc in 1st st. Hdc in 3rd lo of each st across until 2 sts left. Hdc2tog over top loops of last 2 sts. Turn.   – 82 (82, 82, 84, 84, 84,86, 86, 86) st 

Repeat rows 2 & 3 until you have a total of 6 rows, counting from row 1 (or, 6 rows after your last st marker). Your st count should now be 79 (79, 79, 81, 81, 81, 83, 83, 83) and your project should look similar to Figure 18 below. Place another stitch marker in the last st of the 6th row. 

Even Rows

1. (WS) Ch1. hdc in 1st st. Hdc in 3rd lo of each st across until 1 st left. Hdc in top loops of last st. Turn.   – 79 (79, 79, 81, 81, 81, 83, 83, 83) st

Repeat row 1 until you have a total of 9 (9, 11, 13, 15, 15, 17, 19, 19) rows, counting from the row after your last st marker. Your project should now look similar to Figure 19 below. Place a st marker in the 1st st of the last row you just worked. 

Increase Rows

1. (RS) Ch1. 2hdc in 1st st. Hdc in 3rd lo of each st across until 1 st left. Hdc in top loops of last st. Turn.   – 80 (80, 80,  82, 82, 82, 84, 84, 84) st
2. (WS) Ch1. Hdc in 1st st. Hdc in 3rd lo of each st across until 1 st left. 2hdc in top loops of last st. Turn.   – 81 (81, 81, 83, 83, 83, 85, 85, 85) st
3. –  5.   Repeat rows 1 & 2.   – 84 (84, 84, 86, 86, 86, 88, 88, 88) st

6. Ch1. Hdc in 1st st. Hdc in 3rd lo of each st across until 1 st left. (2hdc, dc) in top loops of last st. Bind off.   – 86 (86, 86, 88, 88, 88, 90, 90, 90) st

Your project should now look similar to Figure 20. Place a st marker in the 1st st of the last row just worked. 

Back

The center back is worked similarly to the center front, with fewer decreases and increases, but the same total number of rows. Flip your project so that the back is facing you (as pictured in Figure 21). Count 86 (86, 86, 88, 88, 88, 90, 90, 90) stitches from the end of the row (as pictured in Figure 21). Join your yarn in the last st counted and turn so that the WS is facing you. 

Figure 21

Decrease Row

1. (WS) Ch2, hdc2tog over next 2 sts (counts as hdc3tog). Hdc in 3rd lo of each st across until 1 left. Hdc in top loops of last st. Turn.   – 84 (84, 84, 86, 86, 86, 88, 88, 88) st

Place a st marker in the last st. 

Even Rows

1. (RS) Ch1. Hdc in 1st st. Hdc in 3rd lo of each st across until 1 st left. Hdc in top loops of last st. Turn.   – 84 (84, 84, 86, 86, 86, 88, 88, 88) st

Repeat row 1 until you have a total of 19 (19, 21, 23, 25, 25, 29, 29, 29) rows, counting from the row after your last st marker. 

Increase Row

1. (WS) Ch3, 2hdc in 1st st (counts as dc, 2hdc in 1 st). Hdc in 3rd lo of each st across until 1 left. Hdc in top loops of last st. Turn. Do not bind off.   – 86 (86, 86, 88, 88, 88, 90, 90, 90) st

Place a st marker in the last st of the last row just worked. 

Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Little Late Pullover

Right Shoulder

Using the yarn tail from where you bound off on the last row of the front, join the last st of the last row of the front to the 1st st of the last row of the back (see Figure 22). Continuing from the last row of the back.

1. (RS) Ch1. Hdc in 1st st. Hdc in 3rd lo of next 84 (84, 84, 84, 84, 84, 86, 86, 86) sts. Hdc in 2 top loops of next 2 dc sts (see Figure 23). Hdc in 3rd lo of each st across until 1 st left. Hdc in top loops of last st. Turn.   – 172 (172, 172, 176, 176, 176, 180, 180, 180) st
2. (WS) Ch1. Hdc in 1st st. Hdc in 3rd lo of each st across until 1 st left. Hdc in top loops of last st. Turn.   – 172 (172, 172, 176, 176, 176, 180, 180, 180) st

Repeat row 2 until you have a total of 7 (9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23) rows, counting from the row after the last st markers placed on the front and back. Your project should now look similar to Figure 24. Do not bind off.

Closing The Side

• Place the right sides of your project together. 
• Ss through the 2 top loops of both layers for the 1st st (see Figure 25). 
• Ss through the 3rd lo of the layer closest to you and the 2 top loops of the layer farthest from you for the next 25 sts (see Figure 26) (see note below if making a longer sweater). 
• Ss through the 2 top loops of both layers for the next st. Leave the remaining sts open (see Figure 27). Do not bind off. 
• You should have a total of 118 (118, 118, 122, 122, 122, 126, 126, 126) sts open for the right armhole. 

Note: If making a longer sweater, check your notes to see how many chains you added at the beginning of the left shoulder section. Add that number to the 27 slip stitches in this step.

Right Sleeve

Working now around the sleeve arm opening. We will be working once again in the round but turning at the end of each round. Place a st marker in any unworked st of the last row just worked. This will help you keep count of your sleeve rows. Begin with the wrong side facing you. 

1. (WS) Ch1. Hdc2tog over 1st 2 unworked sts. Hdc in 3rd lo of each st around until there are only 2 sts left unworked. Hdc2tog over top loops of last 2 sts. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 116 (116, 116, 120, 120, 120, 124, 124, 124) st
2. (RS) Ch1. Sk 1st st. Hdc2tog over next 2 sts. Hdc in 3rd lo in each st around until there are 2 sts left (including 1st skipped st). Hdc2tog in top loops of last 2 sts. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 114 (114, 114, 118,118, 118, 122, 122, 122) st

Repeat round 2 until you have a total of 46 rounds, counting from round 1 of the sleeve. Do not turn at the end of the last round. Your stitch count should now be 26 (26, 26, 30, 30, 30, 34, 34, 34). 

47. (RS) Ch1. Sc in 1st st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Do not turn.   – 26 (26, 26, 30, 30, 30, 34, 34, 34) st

Your project should now look similar to Figure 28 below. 

Figure 28

Right Cuff

The right cuff is worked in short rows. Begin with the right side facing you. 

1. Ch8. Sc in bottom bar of 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Ss in 1st st on sleeve body, then ss to next st (see Figure 29). Turn.   – 7 st
2. Sk 2 ss. Sc in blo of next 6 sts. Sc in both loops of last st (see Figure 30). Turn.   – 7 st
3. Ch1. Sc in 1st st. Sc in blo of each st across. Ss into the next 2 sts of sleeve body (see Figure 31). Turn.   – 7 st

Repeat rows 2 & 3 around the opening of the sleeve, finishing with a repeat of row 2. Your cuff should look similar to Figure 32.  Ss the ends of the cuff closed in the following manner:

• Place the right sides together. 
• Ss through 2 top loops of both layers of 1st st (see Figure 33). 
• Ss through both loops of layer closest to you and blo of layer furthest from you for next 6 sts (see Figure 34). Bind off.

Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Little Late Pullover

Finishing The Edges

You may have noticed that I didn’t add a finishing row to the bottom hem and neckline of the modeled sweater. This was a design choice, since I was working sideways with a gradient yarn with long colour changes. I didn’t want to mess with the colour flow by adding a border. Plus I actually like the look of raw edges. I found that it gave the sweater a little more stretch, but it is still stable. 

However, you are welcome to add a finishing row if you please. You can do so by joining in the end of any row on the bottom hem or neckline. Then, ch1 and sc around evenly. It is best to place 1 sc in the 1st row, then 2sc in the next row, and repeat that pattern around. Once you have worked all the way around, ss to join to the 1st st and bind off. 

Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Little Late Pullover

Weave in your ends, and you’re done!

I hope you love your new crochet sweater, and I look forward to seeing all of your beautiful pictures on Ravelry!  

If you’d like to know when I post new patterns and tutorials like the Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Little Late Pullover, head on over to my Facebook and Instagram and give me a like and a follow!

If you enjoyed The Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Little Late Pullover, you may want to check out my other designs!

Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Little Late Pullover

And until next time… Happy Hooking! 😉