Free Crochet Cardigan Pattern – Boxed Baubles
The Free Crochet Cardigan Pattern – Boxed Baubles is copyrighted by I Need It Crochet. You may not copy, share, change, or sell the pattern itself. Also you may not claim this pattern as your own. All pictures contained in this pattern fall under the copyright and may not be used.
Finished items made from The Free Crochet Cardigan Pattern – Boxed Baubles belong to you, and you may do what you wish with them. If you choose to sell them on Etsy, I would very much appreciate it if you credited me as the pattern designer.
Where Can I Buy The Pdf?
The entire pattern is available to view for free on this page (you just have to scroll down to see it). But if you would prefer to have a printable pdf copy of the pattern, you can purchase it for a small fee from my Ravelry and Etsy stores. Just click the graphics below.
This pattern is 11 pages long and contains 13 pictures to help you along the way. a printable pdf will be easier to follow, and you can make notes on it as you go. I find it to be the easier option. But if you like to use the online version, it is here 24/7 for you to view. Enjoy!
Free Crochet Cardigan Pattern – Boxed Baubles
I have been itching to design a crochet cardigan sweater. I can’t stand to be cold, so during the winter. I live in my sweaters. So, I designed this cardigan to be warm, yet stylish. I incorporated a bead stitch detail into the body and sleeves and gave the piece a slightly larger fit, so it’s easy to snuggle up in.
I first learned the Bead Stitch when I designed the Bauble Bandana Cowl. These beads are a little different, as they have an extended single crochet stitch separating them, giving the appearance that each bead is contained in its own little box.
Free Crochet Cardigan Pattern – Boxed Baubles
Finished Size:
Instructions given to fit size X-small; changes for small, medium, large, X-large, 2X-large, 3X-large, 4X-large and 5X-large are in ()
XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
To Fit Bust: 28” (32”, 36”, 40”, 44”, 48”, 52”, 56”, 60”)
Finished Bust: 30” (34”, 38”, 42”, 46”, 50”, 54”, 58”, 62”)
Finished Length: Customizable. Length on model shown is 33”.
Gauge:
1. Ch15, dc in 4th ch from hook and each ch across. – 13 st
2. Ch1, hdc in each st across. – 13 st
3. Ch3, dc in next st and each st across. – 13 st
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have 8 rows total. Swatch should measure 4” x 4”.
Materials:
I used Universal Yarns Classic Shades Solids, which is 70% Acrylic/30% Wool, #4 Aran weight yarn.
Any yarn of similar weight would work.
Approximately 1200 (1300, 1400, 1500, 1600, 1700,1800, 1900, 2000) yds.
6mm Hook
Stitch Markers
Yarn Needle
Scissors
Measuring Tape
Abbreviations:
Sk = Skip
Sp = Space
St = Stitch
Yo = Yarn Over
Ss = Slip Stitch
Ch = Chain
Sc = Single Crochet
Hdc = Half Double Crochet
Dc = Double Crochet
Esc = Extended Single Crochet (See Notes)
Notes:
Ch1 at the beginning of a row is never considered a stitch.
Ch2 at the beginning of a row is considered an esc.
Ch3 at the beginning of a row is considered a dc.
To make an esc: Insert hook in specified st, draw up a loop,
yo, pull through 1 loop, yo, pull through both loops.
For those who have never done the Bead Stitch, I have included a tutorial here. A Bd is counted as 2 sts.
I wrote this pattern with 2” of positive ease. If you would like a more fitted cardigan, choose your size according to the finished measurements.
The model above (that’s me) has a 42” bust, and is wearing a size XL.
Free Crochet Cardigan Pattern – Boxed Baubles
Instructions
The main body of The Boxed Baubles – Free Crochet Cardigan Pattern is worked from the bottom up. You will start with the lower body, then split off for the armholes, continuing up until you have reached the shoulders. Then you will sew the shoulders closed, add the sleeves, and the trim. Note: Because of the nature of these stitches, you will notice that your work may slant. This is a result of working a dc row in one direction, then a hdc row in the other direction. Do not worry about this. When the body portion is finished you will be blocking your work, which will partially correct this. In the last step, you will be adding a trim, which will take care of the rest of the slanting.
Lower Body
With 6mm Hook (or hook used to obtain gauge)
Ch 86 (101, 113, 125, 140, 155, 164, 176, 191).
1. Working into the back hump of the chain: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. – 85 (100, 112, 124, 139, 154, 163, 175, 190) st
2. (Wrong side) Ch1. Hdc in 1st st and each st across. Turn. – 85 (100, 112, 124, 139, 154, 163, 175, 190) st
3. (Right side) Ch3. Dc in next st and each st across. Turn. – 85 (100, 112, 124, 139, 154, 163, 175, 190) st
4. Ch2. *Sc in next 2 sts, esc in next st. ** Repeat from * to ** across. Turn. – 85 (100, 112, 124, 139, 154, 163, 175, 190) st
5. Ch2. *Bd in next st, sk1 st, esc in next st. ** Repeat from * to ** across. Turn. – 85 (100, 112, 124, 139, 154, 163, 175, 190) st
Measurement Check: If you are still on gauge, your piece should measure approximately 26” (30”, 34”, 38”, 42”, 46”, 50”, 54”, 58”) wide and 2 ¼” tall. It is common for people to crochet looser when making a large project as opposed to a small swatch. That is why it is always a good idea to measure your work after you have completed a few rows. If your piece is not the right size, try again with a different sized hook.
6. – 10. Repeat rows 4 & 5, ending on a row 4 repeat. – 85 (100, 112, 124, 139, 154, 163, 175, 190) st
11. Ch3. Dc in next st and each st across. Turn. – 85 (100, 112, 124, 139, 154, 163, 175, 190) st
12. Ch1. Hdc in 1st st and each st across. Turn. – 85 (100, 112, 124, 139, 154, 163, 175, 190) st
Repeat rows 11 & 12 until you have reached the desired length for the lower body (this is below the armpit) of your cardigan, minus 2”. Be sure to end on a row 12 repeat. For example: I wanted my cardigan to be 25” below the armpit, so I repeated rows 11 & 12 until my work was 23” tall. Once you have reached your desired length, we will continue working upwards, starting with the upper right front panel. Do not bind off.
Free Crochet Cardigan Pattern – Boxed Baubles
Upper Panels and Arm Holes
Arm holes can be tricky. One can have a size XS bust, but size M arms. Or a size XL bust and size S arms. It’s one of the things that makes shopping for clothes very annoying. So, I made it easier for you. Simply complete rows 1-3 according to the body size you have already chosen (ex: S, M, L, etc.), then pick the size of the armholes you would like to make. From row 4, onward, you will follow the instructions for that size. Everyone’s measurements are different. I recommend that you measure the circumference of your upper arm and follow the instructions that fit or are slightly larger than that measurement. Your stitch count will stay the same as it was in row 1.
Upper Right Front Panel
1. Ch3. Dc in next 17 (20, 23, 28, 31, 35, 37, 40, 43) sts. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn. – 18 (21, 24, 29, 32, 36, 38, 41, 44) st
2. Ch1. Hdc in 1st st and each st across. Turn.
3. Ch3. Dc in next st and each st across. Turn.
Important Note: The following instructions will give you an arm hole circumference of 13” (15”, 17”, 19”, 21”, 23”, 25”). Repeat rows 2 & 3 until you have a total of 3 (5, 5, 7, 7, 9, 9) rows above the lower body portion. (Sizes XS does not have to repeat.)
4. (6, 6, 8, 8, 10, 10). Ch2, esc in next st. *Sc in next 2 sts, esc in next st. ** Repeat from * to ** until there is only 1 st left unworked. Esc in last st. Turn.
5. (7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11). Ch2, esc in next st. *Bd in next st, sk1 st, esc in next st. ** Repeat from * to ** until there is only 1 st left. Esc in last st. Turn.
6. (8, 8, 10, 10, 12, 12). Repeat row 4 (6, 6, 8, 8, 10, 10).
7. (9, 9, 11, 11, 13, 13). Repeat row 5 (7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11).
8. (10, 10, 12, 12, 14, 14). Repeat row 4 (6, 6, 8, 8, 10, 10).
Now, you will repeat rows 2 & 3 until you have a total of 13 (15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25) rows above the lower body portion. Bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing/slip stitching the shoulder closed.
Upper Back Panel
With the right side facing you, join your yarn in the next unworked stitch on the Lower Body portion. (The next st to the left of the last st on row 1 of your Upper Right Front Panel.) Follow the instructions according to the arm hole size you have chosen. The stitch count should stay the same as in row 1 below.
1. Ch3. Dc in next 48 (57, 63, 65, 74, 81, 86, 92, 101) sts. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn. – 49 (58, 64, 66, 75, 82, 87, 93, 102) st
2. Ch1. Hdc in 1st st and each st across. Turn.
3. Ch3. Dc in next st and each st across. Turn.
Important Note: The following instructions will give you an arm hole circumference of 13” (15”, 17”, 19”, 21”, 23”, 25”). Repeat rows 2 & 3 until you have a total of 3 (5, 5, 7, 7, 9, 9) rows above the lower body portion. (Sizes XS does not have to repeat.)
4. (6, 6, 8, 8, 10, 10). Ch2, esc in next st. *Sc in next 2 sts, esc in next st. ** Repeat from * to ** until there is only 1 st left unworked. Esc in last st. Turn.
5. (7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11). Ch2, esc in next st. *Bd in next st, sk1 st, esc in next st. ** Repeat from * to ** until there is only 1 st left. Esc in last st. Turn.
6. (8, 8, 10, 10, 12, 12). Repeat row 4 (6, 6, 8, 8, 10, 10).
7. (9, 9, 11, 11, 13, 13). Repeat row 5 (7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11).
8. (10, 10, 12, 12, 14, 14). Repeat row 4 (6, 6, 8, 8, 10, 10).
Now, you will repeat rows 2 & 3 until you have a total of 13 (15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25) rows above the lower body portion. Bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing/slip stitching the shoulder closed.
Upper Left Front Panel
With the right side facing you, join your yarn in the next unworked stitch on the Lower Body portion. (The next st to the left of the last st on row 1 of your Upper Back Panel.) Follow the instructions according to the arm hole size you have chosen. The stitch count should stay the same as in row 1 below.
1. Ch3. Dc in next st and each st across. Turn. – 18 (21, 24, 29, 32, 36, 38, 41, 44) st
2. Ch1. Hdc in 1st st and each st across. Turn.
3. Ch3. Dc in next st and each st across. Turn.
Important Note: The following instructions will give you an arm hole circumference of 13” (15”, 17”, 19”, 21”, 23”, 25”). Repeat rows 2 & 3 until you have a total of 3 (5, 5, 7, 7, 9, 9) rows above the lower body portion. (Sizes XS does not have to repeat.)
4. (6, 6, 8, 8, 10, 10). Ch2, esc in next st. *Sc in next 2 sts, esc in next st. ** Repeat from * to ** until there is only 1 st left unworked. Esc in last st. Turn.
5. (7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11). Ch2, esc in next st. *Bd in next st, sk1 st, esc in next st. ** Repeat from * to ** until there is only 1 st left. Esc in last st. Turn.
6. (8, 8, 10, 10, 12, 12). Repeat row 4 (6, 6, 8, 8, 10, 10).
7. (9, 9, 11, 11, 13, 13). Repeat row 5 (7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11).
8. (10, 10, 12, 12, 14, 14). Repeat row 4 (6, 6, 8, 8, 10, 10).
Now, you will repeat rows 2 & 3 until you have a total of 13 (15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25) rows above the lower body portion. Bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing/slip stitching the shoulder closed.
Wet block your work to take care of the slanting. If the slanting doesn’t completely disappear, do not worry. The trim will take care of the rest of it. Whip stitch or slip stitch the tops of the shoulders closed. It would be a good idea to try on your cardigan at this point to see if you’re happy with it. Are the arm holes big enough? Is it the right length (keeping in mind you will be adding 2” with the trim)? Do you like the bust size (keeping in mind you will be adding 4” with the trim)? If you are not happy with the armhole sizes, that is easy enough to change at this point.
Free Crochet Cardigan Pattern – Boxed Baubles
Sleeves
The sleeves for The Boxed Baubles Cardigan – Free Crochet Pattern, are worked in the round. We will be joining each round with a ss and turning after each round. With the right side facing you, join your yarn in the bottom of the armhole. Reminder: You are working according to the arm hole size you chose above. The arm hole circumferences are as follows: 13” (15”, 17”, 19”, 21”, 23”, 25”)
1. Sc into the ends of each row in the following manner:
– 2 sc in the end of each dc row.
– 1 sc in the end of each hdc row.
– 1 sc in the end or each esc, sc row.
– 2 sc in the end of each esc, Bd row.
Continue in this manner around the entire armhole. Ss to your 1st st. Turn. – 40 (46, 52, 58, 64, 70, 76) st
2. Ch1. Hdc in 1st st and each st around. Ss to 1st st. Turn. – 40 (46, 52, 58, 64, 70, 76) st
3. Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to 1st st. Turn. – 40 (46, 52, 58, 64, 70, 76) st
Repeat rows 2 & 3 until you have a total of 14 rows, ending with a row 2 repeat. Note: Following the instructions as written will give you 19” long finished sleeves (after you have finished all the rows and the cuffs). If you would like your sleeves to be longer or shorter, simply add or subtract upper arm rows in a multiple of 2. So for example if you want 18” sleeves, then you would repeat rows 2 & 3 for a total of 12 rows instead of 14.
We will now be working decrease rows. To make this part easier to follow and read I will be using simple instructions. I will state if whether the row is a hdc or dc row and how many decreases to work in that row. So, for example: Work a dc row with 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3) decreases. That means that I want you to work a row of dc with 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3) decreases evenly spaced. A decrease in a dc row is a dc2tog. A decrease in a hdc row is a hdc2tog.
15. Work a dc row with 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3) decreases. Ss to 1st st. Turn. – 39 (44, 50, 56, 62, 68, 73) st
16. Work a hdc row with 0 (0, 0, 1, 1, 2, 2) decreases, Ss to 1st st. Turn. – 39 (44, 50, 55, 61, 66, 71) st
17. Work a dc row with 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3) decreases. Ss to 1st st. Turn. – 38 (42, 48, 53, 59, 64, 68) st
18. Work a hdc row with 0 (0, 0, 1, 1, 2, 2) decreases, Ss to 1st st. Turn. – 38 (42, 48, 52, 58, 62, 66) st
19. Work a dc row with 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3) decreases. Ss to 1st st. Turn. – 37 (40, 46, 50, 56, 60, 63) st
20. Work a hdc row with 0 (0, 0, 1, 2, 2, 2) decreases, Ss to 1st st. Turn. – 37 (40, 46, 49, 54, 58, 61) st
21. Work a dc row with 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3) decreases. Ss to 1st st. Turn. – 36 (38, 44, 47, 52, 56, 58) st
22. Work a hdc row with 0 (0, 0, 1, 2, 2, 2) decreases, Ss to 1st st. Turn. – 36 (38, 44, 46, 50, 54, 56) st
23. Work a dc row with 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3) decreases. Ss to 1st st. Turn. – 35 (36, 42, 44, 48, 51, 53) st
24. Work a hdc row with 0 (0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2) decreases, Ss to 1st st. Turn. – 35 (36, 41, 43, 46, 49, 51) st
25. Work a dc row with 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3) decreases. Ss to 1st st. Turn. – 34 (34, 39, 41, 44, 46, 48) st
26. Work a hdc row with 0 (0, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3) decreases, Ss to 1st st. Turn. – 34 (34, 38, 39, 42, 44, 45) st
27. Work a dc row with 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3) decreases. Ss to 1st st. Turn. – 32 (32, 36, 37, 40, 41, 42) st
28. Work a hdc row with 0 (0, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3) decreases, Ss to 1st st. Turn. – 32 (32, 35, 35, 38, 39, 39) st
29. Work a dc row with 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3) decreases. Ss to 1st st. Turn. – 30 (30, 33, 33, 36, 36, 36) st
30. Ch2, sc in next 2 sts. *Esc in next st, sc in next 2 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** around. SS to 1st st. Turn. – 30 (30, 33, 33, 36, 36, 36) st
31. Ch2, Bd in next st, sk1 st. *Esc in next st, Bd in next st, sk1 st.** Repeat from * to ** around. Ss to 1st st. Turn. – 30 (30, 33, 33, 36, 36, 36) st
32. Repeat row 30.
33. Ch1, sc in next st (sc2tog made). Sc in each st around until you only have 2 sts left unworked. Sc2tog in last 2 sts. Ss to 1st st. Do not bind off. – 28 (28, 31, 31, 34, 34, 34) st
Sleeve Trim
The sleeve trim is made by working short rows off of each stitch of the end of the sleeve.
1. Ch8. (See figure 1) Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Ss into the 1st st. Ss into the next st. (See figure 2) Turn. – 7 st
2. Sk 2 ss. Sc in BLO of each st across. (See figure 3) Turn. – 7 st
3. Ch1. Sc in BLO of 1st st and each st across. Ss into the next unworked st on sleeve. Ss into the next unworked st on sleeve. Turn. – 7 st
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have slip stitched into every stitch on the sleeve and have just finished a row 2 repeat. (See figure 4) Bind off, leaving a tail long enough to sew the cuff closed. Turn the sleeve inside out and sew the cuff closed, working through the front loop of your last row and the bottom chain of your first row. (See figure 5) When you turn the sleeve right side out again, the seam should be almost invisible. (See figure 6)
Repeat for the other sleeve.
Main Body Trim
We will begin the body trim by adding a row of sc around the front of the sweater. With the right side facing you, attach your yarn in the bottom right corner of the sweater. Sc evenly up the right front panel in the following manner:
– 1 sc in the end of the bottom sc row.
– 2 sc in the end of each dc row.
– 1 sc in the end of each hdc row.
– 1 sc in the end of each esc, sc row.
– 2 sc in the end of each esc, Bd row.
Continue in this manner until you have come to the top of the right front panel. Sc in each st along the back of the neck. Then sc evenly down the left front panel in the same manner as before. Once you have finished sc’ing in the front panels, we will add the bottom trim, then the panel trim. Do not bind off.
1. Ch8. (See figure 7) Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Ss into the side of the last sc before your ch8. Ss into the next st. (See figure 8) Turn. – 7 st
2. Sk 2 ss. Sc in BLO of each st across. (See figure 9) Turn. – 7 st
3. Ch1. Sc in BLO of 1st st and each st across. Ss into the next unworked st on body. Ss into the next unworked st on body. Turn. – 7 st
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have worked into every stitch along the bottom, and the 1st sc you made in the side of the panel, and just finished a row 2 repeat. (See figure 10) Note: Sizes that began with an odd number of stitches (XS, XL, 3X, & 4X) will have an extra stitch. You can skip it. Now we will turn our work clockwise and add trim to the front panels.
1. Ch8. (See figure 11) Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Ss into the 1st st. Ss into the next st. (See Figure 12)Turn. – 7 st
2. Sk 2 ss. Sc in BLO of each st across. Turn. – 7 st
3. Ch1. Sc in BLO of 1st st and each st across. Ss into the next unworked st on body. Ss into the next unworked st on body. Turn. – 7 st
Repeat rows 2 & 3, first working into the side of the bottom edging, then around the entire front of the sweater, then into the bottom eding on the other side, finishing with a row 2 repeat. Bind off. When done correctly, figure 13 below is what your corners should look like.
Weave in all your ends, and you’re done!
I hope you love your new crochet cardigan sweater, and I look forward to seeing all of your beautiful pictures on Ravelry!
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If you enjoyed The Boxed Baubles – Free Crochet Cardigan Pattern, you may want to check out my other designs!
Free Crochet Cardigan Pattern – Boxed Baubles
And until next time… Happy Hooking! 😉
