The Crossroads Sweater – Free Crochet Pattern is copyrighted by I Need It Crochet. You may not copy, share, change, or sell the pattern itself. Also, you may not claim this pattern as your own. All pictures contained in this pattern fall under the copyright and may not be used.
Finished items made from The Crossroads Sweater – Free Crochet Pattern belong to you, and you may do what you wish with them. If you choose to sell them on Etsy, I would very much appreciate it if you credited me as the pattern designer.
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When I spied the tutorial for the Crown Puff Lattice stitch in Sarah Hazell’s Crochet Stitch Dictionary (aka: my most favourite crochet stitch book ever), I knew I would have to really showcase it. When I paired it with the Forked Cluster, it created this dramatic, eye-catching sweater.
If you’ve used my patterns before, you know that I don’t like seams, so this top is completely seamless. I also provide a lot of close-up photos to help you work the various stitches.
Finished Sizes:
Instructions given to fit size X-small; changes for small, medium, large, X-large, 2X-large, 3X-large, 4X-large and 5X-large are in ()
XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
To Fit Bust Size: 28” (32”, 36”, 40”, 44”, 48”, 52”, 56”, 60”)
Bottom Circumference: 27 ½” (30 ½”, 36 ½”, 40”, 43 ½”, 46 ½”, 49 ½”, 52”, 56”)
Finished Length: Customizable. Length shown on the model is 25”.
Materials:
I used Patons Hempster, which is a 55% Hemp/45% Cotton, #3 Dk weight yarn.
Any yarn of similar weight would work.
Approximately 700 (800, 900, 1000, 1200, 1400, 1600, 1800, 2000) yds.
4.5mm Hook
Stitch Markers
Yarn Needle
Scissors
Measuring Tape
Abbreviations:
Rs = Right Side
Ws = Wrong Side
Sk = Skip
Sp = Space
St = Stitch
Yo = Yarn Over
Ss = Slip Stitch
Ch = Chain
Sc = Single Crochet
Dc = Double Crochet
Tr = Treble Crochet
Fc = Forked Cluster (See Tutorial Here)
Sc2tog = Single Crochet 2 Together
Sc3tog = Single Crochet 3 together
Hdc5tog = Half Double Crochet 5 Together
Gauge:
15dc x 8 rows = 4” x 4″
Notes:
Ch1 and ch2 at the beginning of a row is never considered a stitch.
Ch3 at the beginning of a row is considered a dc.
Each ch in neck opening counts as a stitch.
The model above (that’s me) has a 42” bust and is wearing a size L.
Instructions
This top is constructed with very little seaming. We will begin at the back bottom of the sleeve, working upwards toward the neckline. Next, we will create a slit for the neck and work down the front. Once the front is as long as the back, we will bind off and sew the bottoms of the sleeves shut. Then, we will join and work downwards in the round. Finally, we will finish off the edges.
The lacy pattern on the upper back and upper front is called the Crown Puff Lattice. There isn’t a specific tutorial for this pattern. Instead, the rows walk you through the pattern. It looks complicated, but once you have the rows memorized, it is quite easy.
Upper back
Start off with a long tail. You will be using this tail to sew the right underarm. Ch 105 (111, 123, 129, 135, 141, 147, 153, 159)
1. Dc in 4th ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. – 103 (109, 121, 127, 133, 139, 145, 151, 157) st
2. Ch3, hdc in 1st st (counts as dc, hdc in same st). Sc in next st, sc3tog over next 3 sts, sc in next st. *(Hdc, dc, hdc) in next st. Sc in next st, sc3tog over next 3 sts, sc in next st. ** Repeat from * to ** until there is only 1 st left unworked. (Hdc, dc) in last st. Turn. See example in Figure 1. – 103 (109, 121, 127, 133, 139, 145, 151, 157) st
3. Ch3, sk 2 st, (tr, ch3, tr) in next st. *Sk 2 st, hdc5tog in next st, sk 2 st, (tr, ch3, tr) in next st. ** Repeat from * to ** until there are only 3 sts left unworked. Sk 2 st, dc in last st. Turn. See example in Figure 2. – 103 (109, 121, 127, 133, 139, 145, 151, 157) st
4. Ch1, sc in next st (counts as sc2tog). (Sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) in next ch3 sp. *Sc3tog over next 3 sts. (Sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) in next ch3 sp. ** Repeat from * to ** until there are only 2 sts left unworked. Sc2tog over last 2 sts. Turn. See example in Figure 3. – 103 (109, 121, 127, 133, 139, 145, 151, 157) st
5. Ch5, tr in 1st st (counts as tr, ch1, tr in same st). Sk 2 st, hdc5tog in next st. *Sk 2 st, (tr, ch3, tr) in next st, sk 2 st, hdc5tog in next st. ** Repeat from * to ** until there are only 3 sts left. Sk 2 st, (tr, ch1, tr) in last st. Turn. See example in Figure 4. – 103 (109, 121, 127, 133, 139, 145, 151, 157) st
6. Ch3, hdc in 1st st (counts as dc, hdc in same st). Sc in next ch1 sp, sc3tog over next 3 sts. *(Sc, Hdc, dc, hdc, sc) in next ch3 sp. Sc3tog over next 3 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** until there is only 2 sts left unworked. Sc in next ch1 sp, (hdc, dc) in last st. Turn. See example in Figure 5. – 103 (109, 121, 127, 133, 139, 145, 151, 157) st
Repeat rows 3-6 until you have a total of 29 (29, 29, 31, 31, 31, 33, 33, 33) rows.
Neckline
1. Ch1. Sc in 1st st and each st across. Turn. – 103 (109, 121, 127, 133, 139, 145, 151, 157) st
2. Ch1. Sc in 1st st and each st across. Turn. – 103 (109, 121, 127, 133, 139, 145, 151, 157) st
3. Ch1. Sc in 1st 25 (28, 31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49) sts. Ch59, sk next 59 sts. Sc in last 25 (28, 31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49) sts. Turn. Note: This will give you a 15” wide neckline. If you would like to adjust this size, simply change the numbers of sc before and after your ch and the ch itself. Just make sure you have an equal number of sc at the beginning and end of the row and that your ch number equals the number of sts skipped. – 103 (109, 121, 127, 133, 139, 145, 151, 157) st
4. Ch1. Sc in 1st st and each st and ch across. Turn. – 103 (109, 121, 127, 133, 139, 145, 151, 157) st
Upper Front
1. Ch3, hdc in 1st st (counts as dc, hdc in same st). Sc in next st, sc3tog over next 3 sts, sc in next st. *(Hdc, dc, hdc) in next st. Sc in next st, sc3tog over next 3 sts, sc in next st. ** Repeat from * to ** until there is only 1 st left unworked. (Hdc, dc) in last st. Turn. See example in Figure 1. – 103 (109, 121, 127, 133, 139, 145, 151, 157) st
2. Ch3, sk 2 st, (tr, ch3, tr) in next st. *Sk 2 st, hdc5tog in next st, sk 2 st, (tr, ch3, tr) in next st. ** Repeat from * to ** until there are only 3 sts left unworked. Sk 2 st, dc in last st. Turn. See example in Figure 2. – 103 (109, 121, 127, 133, 139, 145, 151, 157) st
3. Ch1, sc in next st (counts as sc2tog). (Sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) in next ch3 sp. *Sc3tog over next 3 sts. (Sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) in next ch3 sp. ** Repeat from * to ** until there are only 2 sts left unworked. Sc2tog over last 2 sts. Turn. See example in Figure 3. – 103 (109, 121, 127, 133, 139, 145, 151, 157) st
4. Ch5, tr in 1st st (counts as tr, ch1, tr in same st). Sk 2 st, hdc5tog in next st. *Sk 2 st, (tr, ch3, tr) in next st, sk 2 st, hdc5tog in next st. ** Repeat from * to ** until there are only 3 sts left. Sk 2 st, (tr, ch1, tr) in last st. Turn. See example in Figure 4. – 103 (109, 121, 127, 133, 139, 145, 151, 157) st
5. Ch3, hdc in 1st st (counts as dc, hdc in same st). Sc in next ch1 sp, sc3tog over next 3 sts. *(Sc, Hdc, dc, hdc, sc) in next ch3 sp. Sc3tog over next 3 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** until there is only 2 sts left unworked. Sc in next ch1 sp, (hdc, dc) in last st. Turn. See example in Figure 5. – 103 (109, 121, 127, 133, 139, 145, 151, 157) st
Repeat rows 2-5, then repeat row 2. You should now have 10 rows counting from Row 1 of the Upper Front.
11. Ch1. Sc in 1st st and each st across. Turn. – 103 (109, 121, 127, 133, 139, 145, 151, 157) st
12. (Wrong Side) Ch3. Dc in next st and each st across. Turn. – 103 (109, 121, 127, 133, 139, 145, 151, 157) st
13. (Right Side) Repeat Row 12.
14. (Wrong Side) Repeat Row 12.
15. (Right Side) Ch3, dc in next st. Ch1, Fc over next 3 sts. *Ch2, Fc over next 3 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** until there are only 2 sts left unworked. Ch1, dc in last 2 sts. Turn. – 103 (109, 121, 127, 133, 139, 145, 151, 157) st
16. (Wrong Side) Ch3. Dc in next st and each st and ch sp across. (Each ch1 sp should receive 1 dc, and each ch2 sp should receive 2 dc.) Turn. – 103 (109, 121, 127, 133, 139, 145, 151, 157) st
Repeat rows 13-16 until you have 29 (29, 29, 31, 31, 31, 33, 33, 33) rows counting from Row 1 of the Upper Front. You should end on a row 13 (13, 13, 15, 15, 15, 13, 13, 13) repeat. Bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing the left underarm.
Sewing The Underarms
– Lay out your project with the RS facing up as shown in Figure 6.
– Fold in half, bringing the top edge down to the bottom edge.
– Starting on either side, count 27 sts in from the edge and place a locking stitch marker. Make sure you run the stitch marker through both layers, front and back. Repeat for the other side (see Figure 7).
– Use your tail ends to seam the underarms (see Figure 7). You want to sew all 27 sts, making a knot in the 27th st.
Note: These instructions will give you a bottom circumference of 27 ½” (30 ½”, 36 ½”, 40”, 43 ½”, 46 ½”, 49 ½”, 52, 56”). If this is not the ideal sizing for you, simply change the number of stitches you have seamed. You will want to add or subtract a multiple of 3 on each side. Make sure both of your sides are even. Do keep in mind, however, that this will affect your stitch count in the instructions following.
Bottom
With the wrong side facing you, join your yarn in the stitch directly to the left of your knot (see Figure 8). This means that you will be working into the last stitches that you sewed together in the steps above. This will make the underarm look neater and avoid any large holes in the underarms. As you work the first row, remember that when you get around to the other underarm you will want to work your stitches into the 2 stitches that you have knotted together on that side as well.
The Lower Body is a continuation of the same stitch pattern as the last part of the Upper body. If you ended on Row 13 for the Upper Body, then you will continue on to row 14 below. If you ended with Row 15 for the Upper Body, then you will continue on to Row 12 below.
12. (Wrong Side) Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn. – 102 (114, 138, 150, 162, 174, 186, 198, 210) st
13. (Right Side) Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn. – 102 (114, 138, 150, 162, 174, 186, 198, 210) st
14. (Wrong Side) Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn. – 102 (114, 138, 150, 162, 174, 186, 198, 210) st
15. (Right Side) Ch1, Beginning in 1st st, Fc over next 3 sts, ch2. *Fc over next 3 sts, ch2. ** Repeat from * to ** around until all sts have been worked. Ss to join to 1st Fc. Turn. – 102 (114, 138, 150, 162, 174, 186, 198, 210) st
16. (Wrong Side) Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn. – 102 (114, 138, 150, 162, 174, 186, 198, 210) st
17. (Right Side) Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn. – 102 (114, 138, 150, 162, 174, 186, 198, 210) st
18. (Wrong Side) Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Ss into next st. Turn. – 102 (114, 138, 150, 162, 174, 186, 198, 210) st
19. (Right Side) Ch1, Beginning in 1st st, Fc over next 3 sts, ch2. *Fc over next 3 sts, ch2. ** Repeat from * to ** around until all sts have been worked. Ss to join to 1st Fc. Turn. – 102 (114, 138, 150, 162, 174, 186, 198, 210) st
Repeat Rows 16-19 until you have reached the desired length. Do not bind off yet. You will work the bottom edge in the next section.
Edging
Bottom Edge
1. Ch1. Sc in 1st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Bind off. – 102 (114, 138, 150, 162, 174, 186, 198, 210) st
Sleeve Edge
With the right side facing you, join your yarn near the seam at the bottom of the sleeve. Sc around the entire edge of the sleeve in the following manner:
– 1sc in the end of each sc.
– 2sc in the end of each dc.
– 3sc in the end of each tr.
When you have worked around the entire edge of the sleeve, ss to join to 1st st and bind off. Repeat for the other sleeve.
Neck Edge
Join your yarn with the right side facing you anywhere on the neck. Ch1. Sc in 1st st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st and bind off.
Weave in your ends, and you’re done!
I hope you love your new sweater, and I look forward to seeing all of your beautiful pictures on Ravelry!
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If you enjoyed The Crossroads Sweater – Free Crochet Pattern, you may want to check out my other designs!
And until next time… Happy hooking! 😉
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