Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Longevity Pullover

The Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Longevity Pullover is copyrighted by I Need It Crochet. You may not copy, share, change, or sell the pattern itself. Also, you may not claim this pattern as your own. All pictures contained in this pattern fall under the copyright and may not be used. 

Finished items made from the Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Longevity Pullover belong to you, and you may do what you wish with them. If you choose to sell them on Etsy, I would very much appreciate it if you credited me as the pattern designer.

Where Can I Buy The Pdf?

The entire pattern is available to view for free on this page (you just have to scroll down to see it). But if you would prefer to have a printable pdf copy of the pattern, you can purchase it for a small fee from my Ravelry and Etsy stores. Just click the graphics below.

This pattern is 15 pages long and contains 23 pictures and detailed instructions of how to complete your crochet sweater. A printable pdf will be easier to follow, and you can make notes on it as you go. I find it to be the easier option. But if you like to use the online version, it is here 24/7 for you to view. Enjoy!

Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Longevity Pullover

Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Longevity Pullover

Do you know my main goal  for every pattern I release? Longevity. Crocheting your own garments takes so much time, and if you are using quality materials, it can also be expensive. So when I design an item of clothing, I make sure it’s something I know I will wear for decades to come. 

When I teamed up with Expression Fiber Arts to design this pullover, longevity was at the front of my mind. Their amazingly soft and luxurious Buttery Sport yarn comes in such a beautiful variety of colours. I knew I had to design something that would last. Something that would never go out of style. Something that you would want to wear forever.

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Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Longevity Pullover

Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Longevity Pullover

Notes:

Ch1 at the beginning of a row is never considered a stitch. 

Ch3 at the beginning of a row is considered a dc.

The model above (that’s me) has a 40” bust and is wearing a size L. 

I have written this pattern to have 5”-7” of positive ease, making it oversized. However, you are welcome to choose a size closer to your actual measurements for a more fitted look.

Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Longevity Pullover

All About The Yarn

If you’ve been around for a bit, you’ll know I’ve developed a love affair with Expression Fiber Arts yarns, so I was more than a little excited to collaborate with them on this design.

I chose Buttery Sport for this project for a few reasons. First, their 100% Superwash Merino wool is unbelievably soft and luxurious. Plus, it has the added benefit of being machine washable (though, to keep your project looking beautiful for years to come, I would recommend hand washing it).

Second, I love the tonal quality of the yarn. Some parts of the yarn pick up more dye than others, which means the some parts of the yarn will have a darker colour. This is not a mistake. It’s done on purpose. When you work with tonal yarns it creates a beautiful affect in the finished project. Giving it more depth and interest. I LOVE tonal yarns! <3

Last but not least, Buttery Sport comes in a wide variety of beautiful colours! I was blown away by the options. There were so many beautiful colours available, that I couldn’t choose only one! So, I chose my 4 favourites: Ceres, Umbriel, Levanna, and Elara.

If you’ve never heard of Expression Fiber Arts, I highly recommend you check them out. As a thank-you to my readers, they are offering 15% off all of their Buttery Sport yarns! Just enter code Longevity15 at checkout. You can shop their Buttery Sport yarns by clicking the button below.

Gauge Swatch

The instructions below will create a gauge swatch that is 4” (8 ¼”) wide by 4” (8”) high. If you are making a larger size and/or you sometimes find your tension is off, I recommend making the larger swatch. But, of course, that is completely up to you. Also, the width of your swatch is much more important than the overall height. So if your width is on point, but your height is off, I recommend using the hook that gives you the correct width. 

Note: If you are using natural fibers like Merino wool, it is recommended that you wash and dry your swatch before measuring. Natural fibers will often behave differently than synthetics and your swatch may change sizes after washing. Be sure to follow the washing instructions on the yarn label. 

With 4mm hook

1. Ch 24 (48). Hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Sk 1 ch, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch. *Sk 2 ch, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 chs left. Sk 1 ch, hdc in last ch. Turn.   – 23 (47) st
2. Ch1, hdc in 1st st. Sk 1 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk 1 st, hdc in last st. Turn.   – 23 (47) st
3. Repeat row 2.   – 23 (47) st
4. Ch1, hdc in 1st st. *Ch1, sk 1 st, hdc in next st.** Repeat from * to ** across. Turn.   – 23 (47) st
5. Ch1, hdc in 1st st. Sk 1 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next st. *Sk 2 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next st.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk 1 ch, hdc in last st. Turn.   – 23 (47) st

Repeat rows 2-5 until you have a total of 14 (28) rows. 

Instructions

This sweater is made from the top down. We will begin by creating the upper back panel, then the upper front panel (these two panels run from the shoulders to the underarm). Then, we will make the lower body, working in the round but turning at the end of each round. Next, we will finish off the neckline with a ribbed collar. Finally, we will add the sleeves. Each piece of this pattern is worked off of the one before it. There is no sewing in this project. 

With 4mm hook (or hook used to obtain gauge)

Upper Back

1. Ch 96 (108, 120, 132, 144, 156, 168, 180, 192). Hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Sk 1 ch, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch. *Sk 2 ch, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 chs left. Sk 1 ch, hdc in last ch. Turn.   – 95 (107, 119, 131, 143, 155, 167, 179 191) st
2. (WS) Ch1, hdc in 1st st. Sk 1 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk 1 st, hdc in last st. Turn.   – 95 (107, 119, 131, 143, 155, 167, 179 191) st
3. (RS) Repeat row 2.   – 95 (107, 119, 131, 143, 155, 167, 179 191) st
4. (WS) Ch1, hdc in 1st st. *Ch1, sk 1 st, hdc in next st.** Repeat from * to ** across. Turn.   – 95 (107, 119, 131, 143, 155, 167, 179 191) st
5. (RS) Ch1, hdc in 1st st. Sk 1 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next st. *Sk 2 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next st.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk 1 ch, hdc in last st. Turn.   – 95 (107, 119, 131, 143, 155, 167, 179 191) st

Measurement Check: Your project should now be 16 ½” (18 ½”, 20 ¾”,22 ¾”, 25”, 27”, 29”, 31”, 33 ¼”) wide.  If your measurement is off, you may want to start over with a different sized hook. 

Repeat rows 2-5 until you have the total amount of rows required for your arm size listed below. These measurements are for the circumference of the upper arm. The sleeve will taper down to the wrist (or you can work them straight if you like). You may choose whichever arm size you want, regardless of your body size. 

• 12 ½” upper arm with 6 ¼” wrist: Work a total of 24 rows. 
• 13 ½” upper arm with 6 ¾” wrist: Work a total of 26 rows. 
• 14 ½” upper arm with 7 ¾” wrist: Work a total of 28 rows. 
• 15 ½” upper arm with 8 ¼” wrist: Work a total of 30 rows. 
• 16 ¾” upper arm with 9 ½” wrist: Work a total of 32 rows. 
• 17 ¾” upper arm with 10” wrist: Work a total of 34 rows. 
• 18 ¾” upper arm with 11” wrist: Work a total of 36 rows. 
• 19 ¾” upper arm with 11 ½” wrist: Work a total of 38 rows. 
• 21” upper arm with 12 ½” wrist: Work a total of 40 rows. 

Once you have worked the proper amount of rows, ch1 and bind off. Your st count should be 95 (107, 119, 131, 143, 155, 167, 179 191) st + 1 ch

Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Longevity Pullover

Upper Front

For the upper front panel we will begin with the right shoulder, then work the left shoulder. Next, we will join the two shoulders with a long chain and continue working until the upper front is the same length as the upper back. 

Right Shoulder

Turn your project so that the starting chain is facing up and the right side is facing you (as seen in Figure 1). Join your yarn in the bottom of the 1st chain. Work your first row into the bottom of the chain. 

Figure 1

1. (RS) Hdc in 1st ch. Sk 1 ch, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch. *Sk 2 ch, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch.** Repeat from * to ** over next 15 (21, 27, 27, 33, 39, 45, 51, 57) sts. Sk 1 st, hdc in next st. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.   – 23 (29, 35, 35, 41, 47, 53, 59, 65) st
2. (WS) Ch1, hdc in 1st st. Sk 1 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk 1 st, hdc in last st. Turn.   – 23 (29, 35, 35, 41, 47, 53, 59, 65) st
3. Repeat row 2.   – 23 (29, 35, 35, 41, 47, 53, 59, 65) st
4. Ch1, hdc in 1st st. *Ch1, sk 1 st, hdc in next st.** Repeat from * to ** across. Turn.   – 23 (29, 35, 35, 41, 47, 53, 59, 65) st
5. Ch1, hdc in 1st st. Sk 1 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next st. *Sk 2 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next st.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk 1 ch, hdc in last st. Turn.   – 23 (29, 35, 35, 41, 47, 53, 59, 65) st
6. Repeat row 2.   – 23 (29, 35, 35, 41, 47, 53, 59, 65) st
7. Repeat row 3.   – 23 (29, 35, 35, 41, 47, 53, 59, 65) st
8. Repeat row 4.   – 23 (29, 35, 35, 41, 47, 53, 59, 65) st
9. Ch1, hdc in 1st st. Sk 1 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next st. *Sk 2 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next st.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk 1 ch, (2hdc, dc) in last st. Turn.   – 25 (31, 37, 37, 43, 49, 55, 61, 67) st 
10. Ch1, hdc in 1st st. (Sc, ch1, dc) in next st. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk 1 st, hdc in last st. Turn.   – 26 (32, 38, 38, 44, 50, 56, 62, 68) st
11. Repeat row 9.   – 28 (34, 40, 40, 46, 52, 58, 64, 70) st
12. Ch1, hdc in 1st st. Ch1, hdc in next st. *Ch1, sk 1 st, hdc in next st.** Repeat from * to ** across. Turn. Bind off.   – 29 (35, 41, 41, 47, 53, 59, 65, 71) st

Your right shoulder should look similar to Figure 2 below. 

Figure 2

Left Shoulder

Turn your project so that the starting chain is facing up and the right side is facing you again. Count 23 (29, 35, 35, 41, 47, 53, 59, 65) sts in from the left side of the row and join your yarn in the last st counted. 

1. (RS) Hdc in 1st ch. Sk 1 ch, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch. *Sk 2 ch, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch.** Repeat from * to ** over next 15 (21, 27, 27, 33, 39, 45, 51, 57) sts. Sk 1 st, hdc in next st. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.   – 23 (29, 35, 35, 41, 47, 53, 59, 65) st
2. (WS) Ch1, hdc in 1st st. Sk 1 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk 1 st, hdc in last st. Turn.   – 23 (29, 35, 35, 41, 47, 53, 59, 65) st
3. Repeat row 2.   – 23 (29, 35, 35, 41, 47, 53, 59, 65) st
4. Ch1, hdc in 1st st. *Ch1, sk 1 st, hdc in next st.** Repeat from * to ** across. Turn.   – 23 (29, 35, 35, 41, 47, 53, 59, 65) st
5. Ch1, hdc in 1st st. Sk 1 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next st. *Sk 2 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next st.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk 1 ch, hdc in last st. Turn.   – 23 (29, 35, 35, 41, 47, 53, 59, 65) st
6. Repeat row 2.   – 23 (29, 35, 35, 41, 47, 53, 59, 65) st
7. Repeat row 3.   – 23 (29, 35, 35, 41, 47, 53, 59, 65) st
8. Repeat row 4.   – 23 (29, 35, 35, 41, 47, 53, 59, 65) st
9. (Ch3, 2hdc) in 1st st (counts as dc + 2hdc). Sk 1 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next st. *Sk 2 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next st.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk 1 ch, hdc in last st. Turn.   – 25 (31, 37, 37, 43, 49, 55, 61, 67) st 
10. Ch1, hdc in 1st st. Sk 1 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** until 1 st left. Hdc in last. Turn.   – 26 (32, 38, 38, 44, 50, 56, 62, 68) st
11. Repeat row 9.   – 28 (34, 40, 40, 46, 52, 58, 64, 70) st
12. Ch1, hdc in 1st st. *Ch1, sk 1 st, hdc in next st.** Repeat from * to ** until 1 st left. Ch1, hdc in last st. Ch 37 (37, 37, 49, 49, 49, 49, 49, 49). Do not bind off. Do not turn.   – 29 (35, 41, 41, 47, 53, 59, 65, 71) st + 37 (37, 37, 49, 49, 49, 49, 49, 49) ch

Your project should now look similar to Figure 3 below. Join the end of your long chain to the 1st st of the last row on the right shoulder. To do this, I just slip stitched into the top of the stitch, bind off, and tie a knot (see Figures 4 & 5). 

Figure 3

Figure 4

Figure 5

Upper Front Continued

We will now continue adding rows to the upper front until it is the same length as the upper back. Turn your work so the right side is facing you and join your yarn in the 1st st of the last row worked. Your first row will be worked across the stitches and chains. To create a more uniform look, work into the back humps of the chains. 

13. (RS) Ch1, hdc in 1st st. Sk 1 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next st. *Sk 2 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next st.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk 1 st, hdc in last st. Turn.   – 95 (107, 119, 131, 143, 155, 167, 179 191) st
14. (WS) Ch1, hdc in 1st st. Sk 1 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk 1 st, hdc in last st. Turn.   – 95 (107, 119, 131, 143, 155, 167, 179 191) st
15. (RS) Repeat row 14.   – 95 (107, 119, 131, 143, 155, 167, 179 191) st
16. (WS) Ch1, hdc in 1st st. *Ch1, sk 1 st, hdc in next st.** Repeat from * to ** across. Turn.   – 95 (107, 119, 131, 143, 155, 167, 179 191) st

Repeat rows 13-16 until you have the same number of rows on your front (including the 12 shoulder rows) as you do on your back. Then, ch1. Do not bind off. Your project should look similar to Figure 6 below. 

Lower Body

We will soon work the lower body, but first we must join the bottom edges of the front and back panels. 

• With the wrong sides facing each other, fold your project in half like in Figure 7.
•  Join the end of the chain from the upper back (shown on the right in Figure 6) to the 1st st of the last row of the upper front (as seen in Figure 8). 
• Then, slip stitch into the 1st st of the last row of the upper back (as seen in Figure 9). Turn. You should have the RS of your work facing you. 

Figure 6

Figure 7

Figure 8

Figure 9

We are now working in the round, joining and turning at the end of each round. The rounds below are numbered to match the rows in the upper body. If you finished the upper body with a repeat of row 14, begin with round 15. If you finished the upper body with a repeat of row 16, begin with round 13. For your first row, be sure not to skip the ch1s at the underarms. These do count as stitches. 

13. (RS) Ch1, sk 1st st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next st. *Sk 2 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next st.** Repeat from * to ** until 1 st left. Sk last st, ss to join to 1st st. Ss into next ch1 sp. Turn.   – 192 (216, 240, 264, 288, 312, 336, 360, 384) st
14. (WS) Ch1, (sc, ch1, dc) in 1st ch1 sp. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk 2 sts, ss to join to 1st st. Ss into next ch1 sp. Turn.   – 192 (216, 240, 264, 288, 312, 336, 360, 384) st
15. (RS) Ch1, (sc, ch1, dc) in 1st ch1 sp. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk 2 sts, ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 192 (216, 240, 264, 288, 312, 336, 360, 384) st
16. (WS) Ch1, hdc in 1st st. *Ch1, sk 1 st, hdc in next st.** Repeat from * to ** until 1 st left. Ch1, sk last st, ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 192 (216, 240, 264, 288, 312, 336, 360, 384) st

Repeat rounds 13-16 until you have achieved the desired length. Be sure to end with an odd numbered (RS) round. Then work the edging round below. 

Edging

1. Ch1, ss in 1st st. Dss in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Bind off.   – 192 (216, 240, 264, 288, 312, 336, 360, 384) st

Neckline

The neckline is finished with a round of sc, followed by a ribbed edging, which will be worked in short rows off of the sc stitches. With the RS facing you, join your yarn in the 1st ch st at the back of the neck (see Figure 10). 

Figure 10

Sc Round

1. Ch1. Work 1 sc in  each ch along the back of the neck. Then, alternate between 1 & 2 sc in the side of each row down the side of the neck. Next, work 1 sc in each st along the front of the neck. Finally, alternate between 1 & 2 sc in the side of each row up the other side of the neck. Ss to join to 1st st. Do not turn. 

Note: The number of sts in this round is not that important. What matters most is that the neckline is laying flat. If it appears wavy, try decreasing your hook size and working the round again. If you choose to use a smaller hook for the sc round, continue to use that same hook for the ribbing. But be sure to change back to your original hook for the sleeves. 

Ribbing

1. (RS) Ch7 (see Figure 11). Sc in 2nd ch and each ch across. Ss to st you chained from. Ss to next st (see Figure 12). Turn.   – 6 st + 2 ss
2. (WS) Sk 2 ss, sc in blo of next 5 sts. Sc in both loops of last st (see Figure 13). Turn.   – 6 st 
3. Ch1. Sc in 1st st. Sc in blo of next 5 sts. Ss to next 2 unworked sts (see Figure 14). Turn.   – 6 st + 2 ss

Repeat rows 2 & 3 all the way around the neckline, ending with a repeat of row 2. 

With the wrong side facing you, slip stitch the ends of the ribbing together, working through the bottom of the first row and back loop of the last row (see Figure 15). Bind off. The seam should be nearly invisible on the right side (see Figure 16). 

Figure 11

Figure 12

Figure 13

Figure 14

Figure 15

Figure 16

Sleeves

The sleeves are worked in the round. Like we did with the lower body, we will join and turn at the end of each round. I have written these sleeves to be tapered towards the wrist, but you are welcome to make them straight if you please. 

Follow the instructions below that are labelled for your chosen sleeve size. Remember that you can make any size sleeve you like, regardless of body size. The sleeve sizes are written as follows: 12 ½” (13 ½”, 14 ½”, 15 ½”, 16 ¾”, 17 ¾”, 18 ¾”, 19 ¾”, 21”). They will have 6 ¼” (6 ¾”, 7 ¾”, 8 ¼”, 9 ½”, 10”,  11”, 11 ½”, 12 ½”) cuffs. 

With the RS facing you, join your yarn in the last row by the underarm. 

12 ½” to 16 ¾” Sleeves Only: 

1. (RS) Ch1. Work (sc, ch1, dc) into the end of the 1st row. *Sk 1 row, work (sc, ch1, dc) in the end of the next row.** Repeat from * to ** until there is 1 row left. Sk last row, ss to join to 1st st. Ss into next ch1 sp. Turn.   – 72 (78, 84, 90, 96, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st
2. (WS) Ch1, (sc, ch1, dc) in 1st ch1 sp. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk 2 sts, ss to join to 1st st. Ss into next ch1 sp. Turn.   – 72 (78, 84, 90, 96, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st
3. (RS) Ch1, (sc, ch1, dc) in 1st ch1 sp. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk 2 sts, ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 72 (78, 84, 90, 96, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st
4. (WS) Ch1, hdc in 1st st. *Ch1, sk 1 st, hdc in next st.** Repeat from * to ** until 1 st left. Ch1, sk last st, ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 72 (78, 84, 90, 96, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st 
5. (RS) Ch1, (sc, ch1, dc) in the 1st st. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next st.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk last 2 sts, ss to join to 1st st. Ss to next st. Turn.   – 72 (78, 84, 90, 96, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st 

Repeat rounds 2-5 until you have a total of 16 (12, 12, 8, 8, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) rounds. Then, proceed to the decrease rounds. 

Decrease Rounds

1. (RS) Ch1, (sc, dc) in the 1st st. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next st.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk last 2 sts, ss to join to 1st st. Ss to next st. Turn.   – 71 (77, 83, 89, 95, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st
2. (WS) Ch1, sk 1st st, hdc in next st (counts as hdc2tog). Sk 1 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** until 1 st left. Sk last st, ss to join to 1st st. Turn.    – 70 (76, 82, 88, 94, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st
3. (RS) Ch1, sk 1st 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** until 1 st left. Sk last st, ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 69 (75, 81, 87, 93, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st
4. (WS) Ch1, hdc in 1st st. *Ch1, sk 1 st, hdc in next st.** Repeat from * to ** around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn. (Note: There is no ch1, sk1 before you ss to join.)   – 69 (75, 81, 87, 93, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st
5. (RS) Ch1, (sc, dc) in the 1st st. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next st.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk last 2 sts, ss to join to 1st st. Ss to next st. Turn.   – 68 (74, 80, 86, 92, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st
6. (WS) Repeat round 2.   – 67 (73, 79, 86, 91, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st
7. (RS) Repeat round 3.   – 66 (72, 78, 85, 90, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st
8. (WS) Ch1, hdc in 1st st. *Ch1, sk 1 st, hdc in next st.** Repeat from * to ** until 1 st left. Ch1, sk last st, ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 66 (72, 78, 85, 90, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st

Repeat decrease rounds 1-8 until you have a total of 64 rows (ending on a repeat of round 8). Then proceed to the cuff instructions. Do not bind off. Your st count should be 36 (39, 45, 48, 54, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st. 

Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Longevity Pullover

17 ¾” & 18 ¾” Sleeves Only: 

1. (RS) Ch1. Work (sc, ch1, dc) into the end of the 1st row. *Sk 1 row, work (sc, ch1, dc) in the end of the next row.** Repeat from * to ** until there is 1 row left. Sk last row, ss to join to 1st st. Ss into next ch1 sp. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 102, 108, n/a, n/a) st
2. (WS) Ch1, (sc, ch1, dc) in 1st ch1 sp. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk 2 sts, ss to join to 1st st. Ss into next ch1 sp. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 102, 108, n/a, n/a) st
3. (RS) Ch1, (sc, ch1, dc) in 1st ch1 sp. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk 2 sts, ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 102, 108, n/a, n/a) st
4. (WS) Ch1, hdc in 1st st. *Ch1, sk 1 st, hdc in next st.** Repeat from * to ** until 1 st left. Ch1, sk last st, ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 102, 108, n/a, n/a) st 
5. (RS) Ch1, (sc, dc) in the 1st st. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next st.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk last 2 sts, ss to join to 1st st. Ss to next st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 101, 107, n/a, n/a) st
6. (WS) Ch1, sk 1st st, hdc in next st (counts as hdc2tog). Sk 1 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** until 1 st left. Sk last st, ss to join to 1st st. Turn.    – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 100, 106, n/a, n/a) st
7. (RS) Ch1, sk 1st 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** until 1 st left. Sk last st, ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 99, 105, n/a, n/a) st
8. (WS) Ch1, hdc in 1st st. *Ch1, sk 1 st, hdc in next st.** Repeat from * to ** around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn. (Note: There is no ch1, sk1 before you ss to join.)   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 99, 105, n/a, n/a) st
9. (RS) Repeat Round 5.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 98, 104, n/a, n/a) st
10. (WS) Repeat round 6.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 97, 103, n/a, n/a) st
11. (RS) Repeat round 7.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 96, 102, n/a, n/a) st
12. (WS) Ch1, hdc in 1st st. *Ch1, sk 1 st, hdc in next st.** Repeat from * to ** until 1 st left. Ch1, sk last st, ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 96, 102, n/a, n/a) st 

Repeat rounds 5-12 until you have a total of 64 rows (ending on a repeat of round 8). Then, proceed to the cuff instructions. Do not bind off. Your st count should be n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 57, 63, n/a, n/a) st. 

19 ¾” & 21” Sleeves: 

1. (RS) Ch1. Work (sc, dc) into the end of the 1st row. *Sk 1 row, work (sc, ch1, dc) in the end of the next row.** Repeat from * to ** until there is 1 row left. Sk last row, ss to join to 1st st. Ss into next st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 113, 119) st
2. (WS) Ch1, sk 1st st, hdc in next st (counts as hdc2tog). Sk 1 st, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** until 1 st left. Sk last st, ss to join to 1st st. Turn.    – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 112, 118) st
3. (RS) Ch1, sk 1st 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** until 1 st left. Sk last st, ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 111, 117) st
4. (WS) Ch1, hdc in 1st st. *Ch1, sk 1 st, hdc in next st.** Repeat from * to ** around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn. (Note: There is no ch1, sk1 before you ss to join.)   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 111, 117) st
5. (RS) Ch1, (sc, dc) in the 1st st. *Sk 2 sts, (sc, ch1, dc) in next st.** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk last 2 sts, ss to join to 1st st. Ss to next st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 110, 116) st
6. (WS) Repeat round 2.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 109, 115) st
7. (RS) Repeat round 3.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 108, 114) st
8. (WS) Ch1, hdc in 1st st. *Ch1, sk 1 st, hdc in next st.** Repeat from * to ** until 1 st left. Ch1, sk last st, ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 108, 114) st
9. (RS) Repeat round 5.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 107, 113) st

Repeat rounds 2-9 until you have a total of 64 rows (ending on a repeat of round 8). Then, proceed to the cuff instructions. Do not bind off. Your st count should be n/a ( n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 66, 72) st

Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Longevity Pullover

Cuffs

Just as we did with the neckline, the cuffs will be finished with a round of sc, followed by a ribbed edging. Begin with the RS facing you. 

Sc Round

1. Ch1. Sc in 1st st and each st around. SS to join to 1st st. Do not turn.   – 36 (39, 45, 48, 54,  57, 63, 66, 72) st 

Ribbing

1. (RS) Ch7. Sc in 2nd ch and each ch across. Ss to st you chained from. Ss to next st. Turn.   – 6 st + 2 ss
2. (WS) Sk 2 ss, sc in blo of next 5 sts. Sc in both loops of last st. Turn.   – 6 st 
3. Ch1. Sc in 1st st. Sc in blo of next 5 sts. Ss to next 2 unworked sts. Turn.   – 6 st + 2 ss

Repeat rows 2 & 3 all the way around the sleeve, ending with a repeat of row 2. 

With the wrong side facing you, slip stitch the ends of the ribbing together, working through the bottom of the first row and back loop of the last row. Bind off. The seam should be nearly invisible on the right side. 

Weave in your ends, and you’re done! 

I hope you love your new crochet sweater, and I look forward to seeing all of your beautiful pictures on Ravelry!  

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If you enjoyed the Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Longevity Pullover, you may want to check out my other designs!

Free Crochet Sweater Pattern – Longevity Pullover

And until next time… Happy Hooking! 😉