Free Crochet Top Pattern – Trailhead

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Stylized photo of the Free Crochet Top Pattern - Trailhead.

Free Crochet Top Pattern – Trailhead

The Free Crochet Top Pattern – Trailhead is copyrighted by I Need It Crochet. You may not copy, share, change, or sell the pattern itself. Also, you may not claim this pattern as your own. All pictures contained in this pattern fall under the copyright and may not be used. 

Finished items made from the Free Crochet Top Pattern – Trailhead belong to you, and you may do what you wish with them. If you choose to sell them on Etsy, I would very much appreciate it if you credited me as the pattern designer. 

Where Can I Buy The Pdf?

The entire pattern is available to view for free on this page (you just have to scroll down to see it). But if you would prefer to have a printable pdf copy of the pattern, you can purchase it for a small fee from my Ravelry and Etsy stores. Just click the graphics below.

This pattern is 9 pages long and contains 13 pictures and detailed instructions of how to complete your crochet top. A printable pdf will be easier to follow, and you can make notes on it as you go. I find it to be the easier option. But if you like to use the online version, it is here 24/7 for you to view. Enjoy!

Link to buy the Trailhead Top on Ravelry.

Free Crochet Top Pattern – Trailhead

Link to buy the Trailhead Top pattern on Etsy.

Free Crochet Top Pattern – Trailhead

The Trailhead collection just wouldn’t be complete without this raglan style top. This surprisingly quick and enjoyable project features a wide, square neckline and a fun, easy stitch pattern. 

While designing the Trailhead Cardigan, I was reminded how much I enjoy raglan style tops and sweaters. I love the clean, uniform look it gives the neck and shoulders, and the satisfying way the sleeves and lower body are worked off of the yoke. In an odd way, I even enjoy the challenging math involved in the design process. 😉 

This top is sure to be a crowd pleaser, and as soon as you’re done, you’ll want to make another!

Want to Pin it for later?

Click the image below and save the pin to your favourite crochet pattern boards!

Link to pin the Trailhead Top on Pinterest.

Free Crochet Top Pattern – Trailhead

Stylized photo of the Free Crochet Top Pattern - Trailhead.

Free Crochet Top Pattern – Trailhead

Finished Sizes:

Instructions given to fit size X-small; changes for small, medium, large, X-large, 2X-large, 3X-large, 4X-large and 5X-large are in () 

XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) 

Body Circumference: 28” (32”, 36”, 40”, 44”, 48”, 52”, 56”, 60”)

Finished Length: Customizable.

Arm Circumference: 12” (12”, 12 ½”, 13 ¼”, 14 ¼”, 15 ½”, 17”, 18 ¼”, 19 ½”)

Materials:

I used Caron Cotton Cakes, which is a 60% Cotton, 40% Acrylic, #4 worsted weight yarn. 

Any yarn of similar weight would work. 

Approximately 500 (600, 700, 800, 900, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1300) yds. 

6mm Hook

Stitch Markers

Yarn Needle

Scissors

Measuring Tape

Gauge:

See gauge swatch instructions below. Be sure to always check your gauge. It will save you much time and heartache.

Abbreviations:

RS = Right Side

WS = Wrong Side

Sk = Skip

St = Stitch

Ss = Slip Stitch

Ch = Chain

Sc = Single Crochet

Hdc = Half Double Crochet

Dc = Double Crochet

Hdc2tog = Half Double Crochet 2 Together

Blo = Back Loop Only

3rd Lo = 3rd Loop Only

Skill Level: 

Intermediate

Notes:

Ch1 at the beginning of a row is never considered a stitch. 

Ch3 at the beginning of a row is considered a dc. 

Each ch between sts counts as a st.

The model above (that’s me) has a 41” bust and is wearing a size L. 

Choose your size according to your largest measurement (bust/waist) and how you would like the top to fit. For a close-fitting top, choose the size closest to your largest measurement. For a loose top, choose a size 2-3” larger. 

Stylized photo of the Free Crochet Top Pattern - Trailhead.

Free Crochet Top Pattern – Trailhead

Gauge Swatch

The instructions below will create a gauge swatch that is 4” (8”) wide by 4 ” (8”) high. If you are making a larger size and/or you sometimes find your tension is off, I recommend making the larger swatch. But, of course, that is completely up to you. Also, the width of your swatch is much more important than the overall height. So if your width is on point, but your height is off, I recommend using the hook that gives you the correct width. 

With 6mm hook

  1. Ch15 (29). Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn.   – 14 (28) st
  2. Ch1. Hdc in 1st st. Hdc in 3rd lo until 1 st left. Hdc in last st. Turn.   – 14 (28) st
  3. Ch1. Hdc in 1st st. *Hdc2tog, ch1.** Repeat from * to ** until 1 st left. Hdc in last st. Turn.   – 14 (28) st
  4. Ch1. Hdc in 1st st. Hdc2tog over next 2 ch1 sp (skipping over the top of the hdc2tog as seen Figure 1). Ch1. *Hdc2tog over same ch1 sp just worked and next ch1 sp (see Figure 2). Ch1.** Repeat from * to ** until 3 st left. Hdc2tog over same ch1 sp just worked and sp between last 2 sts. Ch1, hdc in last st (see Figure 3). Turn.   – 14 (28) st
  5. Ch1. Hdc in 1st st. Hdc in next ch1 sp (see Figure 4). *Sk 1 st, 2hdc in next ch1 sp (see Figure 5).** Repeat from * to ** until 2 sts left. Sk 1 st, hdc in sp between last 2 sts. Hdc in last st (see Figure 6). Turn.   – 14 (28) st
  6. Ch1. Hdc in 1st st. Hdc in 3rd lo until 1 st left. Hdc in last st. Turn.   – 14 (28) st
  7. Ch3. Dc in blo of next and each st until 1 left. Dc in last st. Turn.   – 14 (28) st
  8. Ch1. Hdc in 1st and each st across. Turn.   – 14 (28) st
  9. Ch1. Hdc in 1st st. Hdc in blo until 1 st left. Hdc in last st. Turn.   – 14 (28) st

Small swatch is complete. 

For Large Swatch: Repeat rows 2-9. 

Figure 1 of the Free Crochet Top Pattern - Trailhead.

Figure 1

Figure 2 of the Free Crochet Top Pattern - Trailhead.

Figure 2

Figure 3 of the Free Crochet Top Pattern - Trailhead.

Figure 3

Figure 4 of the Free Crochet Top Pattern - Trailhead.

Figure 4

Figure 5 of the Free Crochet Top Pattern - Trailhead.

Figure 5

Figure 6 of the Free Crochet Top Pattern - Trailhead.

Figure 6

Instructions

This project is worked from the top down. You will be working in rounds and turning at the end of each round. We will begin by working the yoke. Then, we will work the lower body. Finally, we will add the sleeves and finish off the neckline. 

Yoke

With 6mm hook: Ch 88 (92, 96, 96, 96, 96, 100, 96, 96). Then ss to 1st ch to form a ring. 

  1. (WS) Working into the back hump of the ch: Ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in 1st ch. *Sc in next 26 (30, 34, 36, 38, 38, 40, 40, 42) chs. (Sc, ch1, sc) in next ch. Sc in next 16 (14, 12, 10, 8, 8, 8, 6, 4) chs.** (Sc, ch1, sc) in next ch. Repeat from * to **. Ss to join to 1st st. (Note: To make this stitch easier to see for subsequent rounds, you may want to add a stitch marker here. As you finish each round, move the stitch marker to the same stitch in the current round. ) Ss into ch1 sp. Turn.   – 92 (96, 100, 100, 100, 100, 104, 100, 100) st + 4 ch1 corners

Note: Your project should look like a rectangle. Each short side will have 18 (16, 14, 12, 10, 10, 10, 8, 6) sts. Each long side will have 28 (32, 36, 38, 40, 40, 42, 42, 44) sts (this doesn’t include the 4 ch1 corners). Each subsequent round will add 2 sts to each side. If you are counting your stitches at the end of each round, it is best to count each side separately. This will make it easier to catch where you made a mistake if your count is off. You can keep track of each side’s stitch count on a piece of scrap paper. 

  1. (RS) Ch1, (hdc, ch1, hdc) in ch1 sp. *Hdc in each st to next ch1 corner. (Hdc, ch1, hdc) in ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** 2 more times. Hdc in each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st (move st marker to this st). Ss into ch1 sp. Turn.   – 100 (104, 108, 108, 108, 108, 112, 108, 108) st + 4 ch1 corners
  2. (WS) Ch1, (hdc, ch1, hdc) in ch1 sp. *Hdc in 3rd lo of each st to next ch1 corner. (Hdc, ch1, hdc) in ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** 2 more times. Hdc in 3rd lo of each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st (move st marker to this st). Ss into ch1 sp. Turn.   – 108 (112, 116, 116, 116, 116, 120, 116, 116) st + 4 ch1 corners
  3. (RS) (Ch4, dc) in ch1 sp (counts as dc, ch1, dc in ch1 sp). *Dc in blo of each st to next ch1 corner. (Dc, ch, dc) in ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** 2 more times. Dc in blo of each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st (move st marker to this st). Ss into ch1 sp. Turn.   – 116 (120, 124, 124, 124, 124, 128, 124, 124) st + 4 ch1 corners
  4. (WS) Ch1, (hdc, ch1, hdc) in ch1 sp. *Hdc in each st to next ch1 corner. (Hdc, ch1, hdc) in ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** 2 more times. Hdc in each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st (move st marker to this st). Ss into ch1 sp. Turn.   – 124 (128, 132, 132, 132, 132, 136, 132, 132) st + 4 ch1 corners
  5. (RS) Ch1, (hdc, ch1, hdc) in ch1 sp. *Hdc in blo of each st to next ch1 corner. (Hdc, ch1, hdc) in ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** 2 more times. Hdc in blo of each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st (move st marker to this st). Ss into ch1 sp. Turn.   – 132 (136, 140, 140, 140, 140, 144, 140, 140) st + 4 ch1 corners 
  6. (WS) Ch1, (hdc, ch1, hdc) in ch1 sp. *Hdc in 3rd lo of each st to next ch1 corner. (Hdc, ch1, hdc) in ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** 2 more times. Hdc in 3rd lo of each st to end. Ss to join to 1st st (move st marker to this st). Ss into ch1 sp. Turn.   – 140 (144, 148, 148, 148, 148, 152, 148, 148) st + 4 ch1 corners
  7. (RS) Ch1, (hdc, ch1, hdc) in ch1 sp. [*Hdc2tog, ch1.** Repeat from * to ** to next ch1 corner. (Hdc, ch1, hdc) in ch1 sp.} Repeat from [ to ] 2 more times. Repeat from * to ** to end. Ss to join to 1st st (move st marker to this st). Ss into ch1 sp. Turn.   – 148 (152, 156, 156, 156, 156, 160, 156, 156) st + 4 ch1 corners
  8. (WS) Ch1, (hdc, ch1, hdc) in ch1 sp. [Hdc in next st. Hdc2tog over next 2 ch1 sp, ch1. *Hdc2otg over same ch1 sp just worked and next ch1 sp, ch1.** Repeat from * to ** until 1 st before next ch1 corner. Hdc in next st. (Hdc, ch1, hdc) in next ch1 sp.] Repeat from [ to ] 2 more times. Hdc2tog next 2 ch1 sp, ch1. Repeat from * to ** until 1 st left. Hdc in last st. Ss to join to 1st st (move st marker to this st). Ss into ch1 sp. Turn.   – 156 (160, 164, 164, 164, 164, 168, 164, 164) st + 4 ch1 corners
  9. (RS) Ch1, (hdc, ch1, hdc) in ch1 sp. [Hdc in next 2 sts. Hdc in next ch1 sp. *Sk 1 st, 2hdc in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** until 3 st before next ch1 corner. Sk 1 st, hdc between skipped st and next st. Hdc in next 2 sts. (Hdc, ch1, hdc) in ch1 sp. ] Repeat from [ to ] 2 more times. Hdc in next 2 sts. Hdc in next ch1 sp. Repeat from * to ** until 3 sts left. Sk 1 st, hdc in between skipped st and next st. Hdc in last 2 sts. Ss to join to 1st st. Ss into ch1 sp. Turn.   – 164 (168, 172, 172, 172, 172, 176, 172, 172) st + 4 ch1 corners. 

Repeat rounds 3 – 10 until you have a total of 12 (13, 15, 17, 20, 22, 25, 28, 31) rounds. Do not ss into the ch1 sp at the end of your last round. Do not bind off. 

  • Your total stitch count should be 180 (192, 212, 228, 252, 268, 296, 316, 340) st + 4 ch1 corners. 
  • Each short side should have 40 (40, 42, 44, 48, 52, 58, 62, 66) sts. 
  • Each long side should have 50 (56, 64, 70, 78, 82, 90, 96, 104) sts. 
  • (This does not include the 4 ch1 corners.) 
  • Your last round should be a repeat of round 4 (5, 7, 9, 4, 6, 9, 4, 7)
Stylized photo of the Free Crochet Top Pattern - Trailhead.

Free Crochet Top Pattern – Trailhead

Lower Body

Your project should now look similar to Figure 7. Fold it in half, with the WS together, as seen in Figure 8, making sure to match up the corners. Use locking st markers to hold the front and back corners together.

Figure 7 of the Free Crochet Top Pattern - Trailhead.

Figure 7

Figure 8 of the Free Crochet Top Pattern - Trailhead.

Figure 8

Figure 9 of the Free Crochet Top Pattern - Trailhead.

Figure 9

Begin with round 5 (6, 8, 10, 5, 7, 10, 5, 8) of the rounds listed below. 

Note: Your 1st round will be worked across the sts, skipping the ch1 corners with the st markers. See Figure 9 for an example. It will look different depending on what round you’re starting with. 

  1. (WS) Ch1. Hdc in 3rd lo of 1st st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 100 (112, 128, 140, 156, 164, 180, 192, 208) st
  2. (RS) Ch3. Dc in blo of next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 100 (112, 128, 140, 156, 164, 180, 192, 208) st
  3. (WS) Ch1. Hdc in 1st st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 100 (112, 128, 140, 156, 164, 180, 192, 208) st
  4. (RS) Ch1. Hdc in blo of 1st st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 100 (112, 128, 140, 156, 164, 180, 192, 208) st
  5. (WS) Ch1. Hdc in 3rd lo of 1st st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 100 (112, 128, 140, 156, 164, 180, 192, 208) st
  6. (RS) Ch1. Hdc2tog over 1st 2 sts, ch1. *Hdc2tog over next 2 sts, ch1.** Repeat from * to ** around. Ss to join to 1st st. Ss into next ch1 sp. Turn.   – 100 (112, 128, 140, 156, 164, 180, 192, 208) st
  7. (WS) Ch1. Hdc2tog over 1st 2 ch1 sp, ch1. *Hdc2tog over same ch1 sp just worked and next ch1 sp, ch1.** Repeat from * to ** around. Your last hdc2tog should finish in the same ch1 sp you started with. Ss to join to 1st st. Ss into next ch1 sp.  Turn.   – 100 (112, 128, 140, 156, 164, 180, 192, 208) st
  8. For sizes L & 3XL: Since you are beginning the lower body with round 10, you must work the instructions labelled Base Round for your first round. Subsequent repeats of round 10 can be worked with the instructions labelled Repeat Round.
    All other sizes: Work the Repeat Round only. 

Base Round: (RS) Ch1. Hdc in 1st 2 sts. [Hdc in next ch1 sp. *Sk 1 st, 2hdc in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** across until 3 sts before the next ch1 corner. Sk1 st, hdc between skipped st and next st. Hdc in next 2 sts. Sk the 2 ch1 corners]. Hdc in next 2 sts. Repeat from [ to ]. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, 140, n/a, n/a, 180, n/a, n/a) st
Repeat Round: (RS) Ch1, 2hdc in 1st ch1 sp. *Sk 1 st, 2hdc in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** around. Sk last st, ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 100 (112, 128, 140, 156, 164, 180, 192, 208) st

Once you have completed round 10, repeat rounds 3 – 10 until you have reached your desired length, ending with an odd numbered (WS) round. Then, finish with the round below. For reference, I worked the lower body until the top was 23” long from the shoulder to the bottom edge. 

  1. (RS) Ch1. Sc in 1st st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Bind off.   – 100 (112, 128, 140, 156, 164, 180, 192, 208) st
Stylized photo of the Free Crochet Top Pattern - Trailhead.

Free Crochet Top Pattern – Trailhead

Sleeves

Begin with the WS (RS, RS, RS, WS, WS, RS, WS, RS) side facing you. Join your yarn in the ch1 sp (as pictured in Figure 10). Your first round will begin and end in the ch1 spaces located in the underarm (see Figure 11). This will create a hole in the underarm (as seen in Figure 12), which can easily be sewn closed using the yarn tail. Be sure you give yourself enough of a yarn tail at the beginning of your sleeve to do this. 

Figure 10.

Figure 10

Figure 11.

Figure 11

Figure 12.

Figure 12

Begin with round 5 (6, 8, 10, 5, 7, 10, 5, 8). 

Work rounds 3-10 (repeating if necessary) until you have reached the desired length, ending with an odd numbered (WS) round. For reference, I worked 6 sleeve rounds, making my sleeve 3” long from underarm to edge. 

  1. (WS) Ch1. Hdc in 3rd lo of 1st st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 42 (42, 44, 46, 50, 54, 60, 64, 68) st
  2. (RS) Ch3. Dc in blo of next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 42 (42, 44, 46, 50, 54, 60, 64, 68) st
  3. (WS) Ch1. Hdc in 1st st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 42 (42, 44, 46, 50, 54, 60, 64, 68) st
  4. (RS) Ch1. Hdc in blo of 1st st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 42 (42, 44, 46, 50, 54, 60, 64, 68) st
  5. (WS) Ch1. Hdc in 3rd lo of 1st st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 42 (42, 44, 46, 50, 54, 60, 64, 68) st
  6. (RS) Ch1. Hdc2tog over 1st 2 sts, ch1. *Hdc over next 2 sts, ch1.** Repat from * to ** around. Ss to join to 1st st. Ss into next ch1 sp. Turn.   – 42 (42, 44, 46, 50, 54, 60, 64, 68) st
  7. (WS) Ch1. Hdc2tog over 1st 2 ch1 sp, ch1. *Hdc2tog over same ch1 sp just worked and next ch1 sp, ch1.** Repeat from * to ** around. Your last hdc2tog should finish in the same ch1 sp you started with. Ss to join to 1st st. Ss into next ch1 sp. Turn.   – 42 (42, 44, 46, 50, 54, 60, 64, 68) st
  8. For sizes L & 3XL: Since you are beginning the sleeve with round 10, you must work the instructions labelled Base Round for your first round. Subsequent repeats of round 10 can be worked with the instructions labelled Repeat Round.
    All other sizes: Work the Repeat Round only. 

Base Round: (RS) Ch1. Hdc in 1st 2 sts. [Hdc in next ch1 sp. *Sk 1 st, 2hdc in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** across until 3 sts before the next ch1 corner. Sk1 st, hdc between skipped st and next st. Hdc in next 2 sts. Sk the 2 ch1 corners]. Hdc in next 2 sts. Repeat from [ to ]. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, 46, n/a, n/a, 60, n/a, n/a) st
Repeat Round: (RS) Ch1, 2hdc in 1st ch1 sp. *Sk 1 st, 2hdc in next ch1 sp.** Repeat from * to ** around. Sk last st, ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 42 (42, 44, 46, 50, 54, 60, 64, 68) st

Once you have made your sleeve the desired length (ending with a WS round), finish with the round below. 

  1. (RS) Ch1. Sc in 1st st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Bind off.   – 42 (42, 44, 46, 50, 54, 60, 64, 68) st

Neck

We will finish off the neck with a round of sc. Note: if you find your neck looking a little droopy, try working this finishing round with a slightly smaller hook. With the RS facing you, join your yarn anywhere on the neck. I find the join to be less noticeable if you place it in one of the corners, as seen in Figure 13 below. 

Figure 13.

Figure 13

  1. (RS) Ch1. Sc in 1st ch and each ch around. Ss to join to 1st st. Bind off.   – 88 (92, 96, 96, 96, 96, 100, 96, 96) st

Weave in your ends, and you’re done! 

I hope you love your new crochet top, and I look forward to seeing all of your beautiful pictures on Ravelry!  

If you’d like to know when I post new patterns and tutorials like the Free Crochet Top Pattern – Trailhead, head on over to my Facebook and Instagram and give me a like and a follow!

If you enjoyed the Free Crochet Top Pattern – Trailhead, you may want to check out my other designs!

Stylized photo of the Free Crochet Top Pattern - Trailhead.

Free Crochet Top Pattern – Trailhead

And until next time… Happy Hooking! 😉


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