The Cozy Cabled Sweater Dress – Free Crochet Pattern

The Cozy Cabled Sweater Dress – Free Crochet Pattern is copyrighted by I Need It Crochet. You may not copy, share, change, or sell the pattern itself. Also you may not claim this pattern as your own. All pictures contained in this pattern fall under the copyright and may not be used. 

Finished items made from The Cozy Cabled Sweater Dress – Free Crochet Pattern belong to you, and you may do what you wish with them. If you choose to sell them on Etsy, I would very much appreciate it if you credited me as the pattern designer. 

Or… Just scroll down to see it for free!

When I saw that velvet yarn was making a comeback, I got so excited! I had a few knit velvet pullovers back in the 90’s, and they were my favourite things to wear. So naturally, when the new velvet yarns came out, I knew I would have to design a sweater. 

But, I must give you fair warning… People will want to touch you! Lol! Seriously though, there’s something about velvet. Everywhere I go, people say “Oooh, velvet!” and pet my sweater. My kids won’t leave me alone. As soon as I sit down they crawl into my lap and give me snuggles and hugs….. wait. This is actually pretty awesome. But for severe introverts and those who don’t care to be touched… sharpen you nails and work on your death stare to keep the strokers at bay! 😉

This sweater dress features a simple design, with a wide, bold cable running down the front. It pairs beautifully with leggings or skinny jeans. And the length is fully customizable, so you can make it a typical pullover length, or even a cropped sweater!

The Cozy Cabled Sweater Dress – Free Crochet Pattern

Notes:

Ch1  at the beginning of a row is never considered a stitch. 

I have added many pictures to help you along the way.

The model above (that’s me) has a 42” bust, and is wearing a size XL.

Instructions

This The Cozy Cabled Sweater Dress – Free Crochet Pattern is worked from the bottom up. First, we will create the bottom band. Then, we will join the ends of that band and continue working upwards in the round. Once we have achieved the proper length up to the waist, we will work decrease rows until we have the proper bust size. Then, we will continue working until we have achieved the proper length up to the underarm. Next, we will split off to create the armholes. We will do a tiny bit of sewing in the shoulder seams. Finally, we will add the sleeves and the cowl neck. 

Bottom Band

With 6.5mm Hook (or hook used to obtain gauge)

Note: A few of my testers noted that going down a hook size from your gauge hook makes the band a bit more stable and less stretchy. If you are using velvet yarn this would be a good option. Always check your measurements. 

1. Ch16, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn.   – 15 st

2. Working this row in BLO: Ch1, sc in 1st st and each st across. Turn.   – 15 st 

Repeat row 2 until you have a total of 86 (90, 98, 110, 120, 134, 146, 156, 166) rows. Your band will look similar to figure 1 (just quite a bit longer). Your band should be roughly 33” (35”, 38”, 42”, 46”, 52”, 56”, 60”, 64”) long. 

If it is a bit longer, don’t panic. Lay it out and give the sides of the band a tug sideways, like you’re trying to stretch it wider, it will put some spring back in the stitches and decrease the length. If it is still 1-2” off, it isn’t a big deal. This stitch is stretchy, and sometimes it can lose its shape. This is why I only use it for edgings, or in places where I can anchor it. When you ss it together and add the sc around the top, it should keep it under control. If you’re still too long and you’re unhappy with it, another option is to try using a smaller hook. Just be sure to switch back to the hook you achieved gauge with when you get to the lower body. 

Ss the ends of your band together through the BLO of your last row (shown in red in figure 2) and the bottom bar of your starting chain (shown in yellow in figure 2) . Your band is currently wrong side out. Turn your band so that it is right side out. It should now look like figure 3. Do not fasten off.

Lower Body

The Cozy Cabled Sweater Dress – Free Crochet Pattern

We will now continue working upwards in the round. We will be joining each round with a ss and turning after each round. To make this pattern easier to work, you will be starting each round in the 2nd stitch (unless specified). This is the stitch immediately to the left of where you placed your slip stitch in the previous row. If you look at figure 4 below, you will see that I have ch1 and worked my 1st hdc into the next st. When you do this, you must remember that the stitch where you placed your slip stitch in the previous row, is where you will place your last stitch. (See figure 5) 

1. Ch1. Work 1 sc into the end of each row around. Ss to 1st sc. Turn.   – 86 (90, 98, 110, 120, 134, 146, 156, 166) st

2. Ch1. Hdc in next 66 (70, 78, 87, 95, 105, 114, 122, 129) sts. Bpdc in next 12 sts (see figure 6). Hdc in each remaining st around. Ss to 1st hdc. Turn.   – 86 (90, 98, 110, 120, 134, 146, 156, 166) st

3. Ch1. Hdc in next 8 (8, 8, 11, 13, 17, 20, 22, 25) sts. *Sk3 sts, fptr in next 3 sts (see figure 7), working in front of the sts you just made, fptr in the 3 sts you previously skipped (see figure 8). ** Repeat from * to ** 1 more time (see figure 9). Hdc in each remaining st around. Ss to 1st hdc. Turn.   – 86 (90, 98, 110, 120, 134, 146, 156, 166) st

4. Ch1. Hdc in next 66 (70, 78, 87, 95, 105, 114, 122, 129) sts. Bpdc in next 12 sts (see figure 10). Hdc in each remaining st around. Ss to 1st hdc. Turn.   – 86 (90, 98, 110, 120, 134, 146, 156, 166) st

5. Ch1. Hdc in next 8 (8, 8, 11, 13, 17, 20, 22, 25) sts. Fpdc in next 3 sts. Sk 3 sts, fptr in next 3 sts (see figure 11). Working behind the fptr you just worked, tr in the 3 sts you previously skipped (see figures 12, 13, & 14). Fpdc in next 3 sts (see figure 15). Hdc in each remaining st around. Ss to 1st hdc. Turn.   – 86 (90, 98, 110, 120, 134, 146, 156, 166) st

Measurement check: Your sweater should be approximately 16 ½” (17 ½”, 19”, 21”, 23”, 25 ½”, 28”, 30”, 32”) wide. 

Repeat rounds 2 – 5 until your sweater is long enough so that the bottom edge sits where you would like the bottom hem to be and the top edge sits just at your belly button. I wanted my sweater dress to be long enough to sit just above my knee, so I kept going until it was about 17” long. Be sure to end with a round 5 repeat.

Next, we will work a few decrease rounds to bring the width down to bust size. 

Decrease Rounds

Note: Decreasing is optional! If your bust measurement is the same or slightly larger than your hip measurement, you’d be better off to skip the decrease rows altogether. Just remember that your stitch count will be different and you will have to do a little math when it comes to the upper body. If you have the knack of working the cable stitch, it will be easy.

1. Ch1. Hdc in next 41 (43, 47, 53, 58, 65, 71, 76, 81) sts. Hdc2tog. Hdc in next 23 (25, 29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 46) sts. Bpdc in next 12 sts. Hdc in next 6 (6, 6, 9, 11, 15, 18, 20, 23) sts. Hdc2tog. Ss to 1st hdc. Turn.   – 84 (88, 96, 108, 118, 132, 144, 154, 164) st

2. Ch1. Hdc in next 7 (7, 7, 10, 12, 16, 19, 21, 24) sts. *Sk3 sts, fptr in next 3 sts, fptr in the 3 sts you previously skipped. ** Repeat from * to ** 1 more time. Hdc in next 21 (23, 27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42, 44) sts. Hdc2tog. Hdc in next 40 (42, 46, 52, 57, 64, 70, 75, 80) sts. Hdc2tog. Ss to 1st hdc. Turn.   – 82 (86, 94, 106, 116, 130, 142, 152, 162) st

3. Ch1. Hdc in next 39 (41, 45, 51, 56, 63, 69, 74, 79) sts. Hdc2tog. Hdc in next 22 (24, 28, 31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 45) sts. Bpdc in next 12 sts. Hdc in next 5 (5, 5, 8, 10, 14, 17, 19, 22) sts. Hdc2tog. Ss to 1st hdc. Turn.   – 80 (84, 92, 104, 114, 128, 140, 150, 160) st

Sizes S, M, L, & XL: Skip the rest of the decrease rounds and continue at the instructions below labelled ‘All Sizes’. 

All other sizes: Continue with decrease rounds.

4. Ch1. Hdc in next 6 (N/A, N/A,  N/A, N/A, 15, 18, 20, 23) sts. Fpdc in next 3 sts. Sk 3 sts, fptr in next 3 sts. Working behind the fptr you just worked, tr in the 3 sts you previously skipped. Fpdc in next 3 sts. Hdc in next 20 (N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A, 35, 38, 41, 43) sts. Hdc2tog. Hdc in next 38 (N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A, 62, 68, 73, 78) sts. Hdc2tog. Ss to 1st hdc. Turn.   – 78 (N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A, 126, 138, 148, 158) st

5. Ch1. Hdc in next 37 (N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A, 61, 67, 72, 77) sts. Hdc2tog. Hdc in next 21 (N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A, 36, 39, 42, 44) sts. Bpdc in next 12 sts. Hdc in next 4 (N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A, 13, 16, 18, 21) sts. Hdc2tog. Ss to 1st hdc. Turn.   – 76 (N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A, 124, 136, 146, 156) st

Sizes 2X, 3X, 4X, & 5X: Skip the rest of the decrease rounds and continue at the instructions below labelled ‘All Sizes’. 

Size XS: Continue with decrease rounds.

6. Ch1. Hdc in next 5 (N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A) sts. *Sk3 sts, fptr in next 3 sts, fptr in the 3 sts you previously skipped. ** Repeat from * to ** 1 more time. Hdc in next 19 (N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A) sts. Hdc2tog. Hdc in next 36 (N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A) sts. Hdc2tog. Ss to 1st hdc. Turn.   – 74 (N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A) st

All Sizes

Your stitch count should now be 74 (84, 94, 104, 114, 124, 136, 146, 156) st, which will create a 28” (32”, 36”, 40”, 44”, 48”, 52”, 56”, 60”) bust. Be sure to check your measurements. We will now continue working upwards towards the underarms. Begin with the row marked with your size and continue from there. 

For example: If you are making a size 2X, begin with round 2, then work rounds 3 & 4. Then read the instructions below.

1. Ch1. Hdc in next 57 (66, 74, 83, 91, 98, 107, 115, 122) sts. Bpdc in next 12 sts. Hdc in each remaining st around. Ss to 1st hdc. Turn.   – 74 (84, 94, 104, 114, 124, 136, 146, 156) st

2. Sizes 2X, 3X, 4X, & 5X: Begin here. Ch1. Hdc in next 5 (6, 6, 9, 11, 14, 17, 19, 22) sts. *Sk3 sts, fptr in next 3 sts, fptr in the 3 sts you previously skipped. ** Repeat from * to ** 1 more time. Hdc in each remaining st around. Ss to 1st hdc. Turn.   – 74 (84, 94, 104, 114, 124, 136, 146, 156) st

3. Size XS: Begin here. Ch1. Hdc in next 57 (66, 74, 83, 91, 98, 107, 115, 122) sts. Bpdc in next 12 sts. Hdc in each remaining st around. Ss to 1st hdc. Turn.   – 74 (84, 94, 104, 114, 124, 136, 146, 156) st

4. Sizes S, M, L, & XL: Begin here. Ch1. Hdc in next 5 (6, 6, 9, 11, 14, 17, 19, 22) sts. Fpdc in next 3 sts. Sk 3 sts, fptr in next 3 sts. Working behind the fptr you just worked, tr in the 3 sts you previously skipped. Fpdc in next 3 sts. Hdc in each remaining st around. Ss to 1st hdc. Turn.   – 74 (84, 94, 104, 114, 124, 136, 146, 156) st

Repeat rounds 1 – 4 until your sweater is long enough so the top edge sits just below your underarm. Be sure to end with a round 2 or 4 repeat. Do not bind off.

Upper Body

Next, we will divide the sweater in half (front and back), and continue working upward toward the shoulders. We will begin with the upper back of the The Cozy Cabled Sweater Dress – Free Crochet Pattern. 

Note: These instructions will give you an upper arm circumference of 14” (15”, 16”, 17”, 18”, 19”, 21”, 22”, 23”). If your upper arm measurement doesn’t match up with the sweater size you are making, feel free to follow the instructions according to your upper arm measurement. You will have to use the stitch counts for your body size, but change the row counts according to your arm size. 

So for example, If you are making a size large body, but a size small arm, your stitch count will still be 52, but you will work 13 rows instead of 15.

Upper Back

1. Ch1. Hdc in next 37 (42, 46, 52, 57, 62, 68, 73, 78) sts. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.   – 37 (42, 46, 52, 57, 62, 68, 73, 78) st

2. Ch1. Hdc in 1st st and each st across. Turn.   – 37 (42, 46, 52, 57, 62, 68, 73, 78) st

Repeat row 2 until you have a total of 12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) rows. Bind off, leaving a long tail to sew the shoulder. 

Upper Front

At the underarm, I instructed you to end with a round 2 or 4 repeat. Follow these instructions according to where you left off. For example: Those that ended with a round 4 repeat will begin with row 1 and continue with 2, 3, & 4. Then read the instructions below. 

With the wrong side facing you, join your yarn in the next unworked st on the front.

1. If you ended with a round 4 repeat: Begin here. Ch1. Hdc in the next 20 (24, 28, 31, 34, 36, 39, 42, 44) sts. Bpdc in the next 12 sts. Hdc in each remaining st across. Turn.   – 37 (42, 46, 52, 57, 62, 68, 73, 78) st

2. Ch1. Hdc in next 5 (6, 6, 9, 11, 14, 17, 19, 22) sts. *Sk3 sts, fptr in next 3 sts, fptr in the 3 sts you previously skipped. ** Repeat from * to ** 1 more time. Hdc in each remaining st across. Turn.    – 37 (42, 46, 52, 57, 62, 68, 73, 78) st

3. If you ended with a round 2 repeat: Begin here. Ch1. Hdc in the next 20 (24, 28, 31, 34, 36, 39, 42, 44) sts. Bpdc in the next 12 sts. Hdc in each remaining st across. Turn.   – 37 (42, 46, 52, 57, 62, 68, 73, 78) st

4. Ch1. Hdc in next 5 (6, 6, 9, 11, 14, 17, 19, 22) sts. Fpdc in next 3 sts. Sk 3 sts, fptr in next 3 sts. Working behind the fptr you just worked, tr in the 3 sts you previously skipped. Fpdc in next 3 sts. Hdc in each remaining st across. Turn.   – 37 (42, 46, 52, 57, 62, 68, 73, 78) st

Repeat rows 1 – 4 until you have a total of 12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) rows. Bind off, leaving a long tail to sew the shoulder. Note: You want your row count for the front to match your row count for the back.

Shoulder Seams

We will now sew the shoulders closed. 

 – Begin by turning your sweater inside out. 

– Using your yarn end and a darning needle, Whip stitch the tops of the last rows together. You will want to sew 7 (9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21, 23, 25) sts in from the edge. Knot securely. 

– Repeat for the other shoulder. 

– Turn your sweater right side out. 

– Try on your sweater to check the fit. Do you like the size of the neck and arm holes? If you don’t love it, now is the time to change it. 

Sleeves

Now we will create the sleeves. We will once again be working in the round and each round will begin in the 2nd st as it did with the body of the sweater. 

You can begin with either sleeve. With the right side facing you, join your yarn in the bottom corner where the underarm will be. We are working the first round into the side edges of the upper body rows. 

1. Ch1. Place 1 hdc in the end of the 1st row. *Place 2 hdc in the end of the next row. Place 1 hdc in the end of the next row. ** Repeat from * to ** around, until there is only 1 row end left unworked. Place 2 (1, 2, 1, 2, 1, 2, 1, 2) hdc in the last row end. Ss to the 1st hdc. Turn.   – 36 (38, 42, 44, 48, 50, 54, 58, 60) st 

2. Ch1. Hdc in next st and each st around. Ss to the 1st hdc. Turn.   – 36 (38, 42, 44, 48, 50, 54, 58, 60) st

Repeat round 2 until your sleeve is your preferred length, minus 2”. Do not bind off.

Sleeve Edging

Now we will add a ribbed edge to the sleeve. This edging is made by working short rows off of each stitch of the end of the sleeve. Turn your work so that the wrong side is facing you. 

1. Ch6. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Ss into 1st st on sleeve (the st where you chained from marked in red in figure 16), ss into the next unworked st on sleeve (marked in red in figure 16). Your work should now look like figure 17. Turn.   – 5 st

2. Working this row in BLO: Sk 2 ss (marked in yellow in figure 18). Sc in next st and each st across. Your work should now look like figure 19. Turn.   – 5 st

3. Working this row in the BLO: Ch1. Sc in 1st st and each st across. Ss into next 2 unworked sts on sleeve (marked in red in figure 20). Your work should now look like figure 21. Turn.   – 5 st

Repeat rows 2 & 3 around the entire edge of the sleeve. You should now have worked a short row off of each of the sleeve stitches and ended with a row 2 repeat. Turn so that the wrong side is facing you again. Ss the edge closed through the BLO of your last row (marked in red in figure 22) and the bottom bar of your 1st row (marked in yellow in figure 22). Bind off. Your seam should be invisible like in figure 23. Repeat for the other sleeve.  

Cowl Neck

The neck is worked in a similar fashion as the sleeve edging, except we will leave it open with a slight overlap. 

– Begin by laying out your sweater, right side out, with the front facing you. 

– On the front of the neck hole, count 3 sts in from the left edge. Join your yarn here. 

– Ch1. Sc in 1st st and each st around (see figure 24). You should now have 1sc in each st of your neck hole (see figure 25). 

– Do not join. Instead, you will do a Fpsc in the first 6 sc that you worked for this row. Now you will have 1 sc for each st of your neck hole, + 6 (see figure 26). Do not bind off. Turn.

1. Ch21. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Ss into 1st st on neck (the st where you chained from), ss into the next unworked st on neck (see figure 27). Turn.   – 20 st

2. Working this row in BLO: Sk 2 ss. Sc in next st and each st across (see figure 28). Turn.   – 20 st

3. Working this row in BLO: Ch1. Sc in 1st st and each st across. Ss into next 2 unworked sts on neck (see figure 29). Turn.   – 20 st

Repeat rows 2 & 3 until all of your neck sts have been worked (including the 6 ‘extra’ sts), and you have ended on a row 2 repeat. Bind off. 

Weave in your ends, and you’re done! 

I hope you love your new sweater, and I look forward to seeing all of your beautiful pictures on Ravelry!  

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If you enjoyed The Cozy Cabled Sweater Dress – Free Crochet Pattern, you may want to check out my other designs!

And until next time… Happy Hooking! 😉