Double Cross Cardigan – Free Crochet Sweater Pattern

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Double Cross Cardigan - Free Crochet Sweater Pattern

Double Cross Cardigan – Free Crochet Sweater Pattern

The Double Cross Cardigan – Free Crochet Sweater Pattern is copyrighted by I Need It Crochet. You may not copy, share, change, or sell the pattern itself. Also, you may not claim this pattern as your own. All pictures contained in this pattern fall under the copyright and may not be used. 

Finished items made from the Double Cross Cardigan – Free Crochet Sweater Pattern belong to you, and you may do what you wish with them. If you choose to sell them on Etsy, I would very much appreciate it if you credited me as the pattern designer.

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I sure do love a good cardigan. So much so that I’ve nearly worn my Boxed Baubles Cardigan to death! Naturally, it was time to design another one. 

I’ve always loved the look of blanket cardigans. They are super cozy while still being very chic and fashionable. I designed this cardi with generous side panels and a beautiful spike double crochet criss-cross stitch pattern. This gives the piece a warm feel and a gorgeous drape. 

How to crochet the Double Cross Cardigan – Free Crochet Sweater Pattern

Finished Sizes:

Instructions given to fit size X-small; changes for small, medium, large, X-large, 2X-large, 3X-large, 4X-large and 5X-large are in () 

XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) 

To Fit Bust Circumference: 28” (32”, 36”, 40”, 44”, 48”, 52”, 56”, 60”)

Back Width (shoulder to shoulder): 14” (14 ¾”, 15 ¼”, 16 ½”, 17 ¼”, 18 ½”, 18 ½”, 19”, 19”)

Finished Length: Customizable.

Arm Circumference: Each size may choose whichever arm circumference they like from the following options: 9 ½” (10 ¾”, 12”, 13 ¼”, 14 ½”, 15 ¾”, 17”, 18 ¼”, 19 ½”, 21”, 22”, 23 ¾”)

Gauge:

See gauge swatch instructions below. Be sure to always check your gauge. It will save you much time and heartache.

Materials:

I used Universal Yarn Classic Shades Solids, which is a 70% Acrylic, 30% Wool, #4 Worsted weight yarn. 

Any yarn of similar weight would work. 

Approximately 1600 (1800, 2000, 2200,2400, 2600, 2800, 3000) yds. 

6mm Hook

Stitch Markers

Yarn Needle

Scissors

Measuring Tape

Abbreviations:

RS = Right Side

WS = Wrong Side

Sk = Skip

St = Stitch

Ss = Slip Stitch

Ch = Chain

Dc = Double Crochet

Spdc = Spike Double Crochet

Dc2tog = Double Crochet 2 Together

Notes:

Ch3 at the beginning of a row is considered a dc.

Ch1 at the beginning of a row is not considered a stitch. 

Ch1 between stitches is counted as a stitch. 

The model above (that’s me) has a 40” bust and is wearing a size L. 

The back width is written to be slightly fitted while the front is open and loose. 

If your back width measurement does not match up with your bust size, it is better to size up to fit the back. If the back is too small, the sweater will not fit properly or may pinch in the underarms. 

You may choose whichever arm size suits you best.

I have created a photo tutorial for the Spike Double Crochet stitch. You can find it here.

Double Cross Cardigan - Free Crochet Sweater Pattern

Double Cross Cardigan – Free Crochet Sweater Pattern

Gauge Swatch

I have written two sizes of gauge swatch for this pattern. If you are making a plus size sweater, I recommend making a larger swatch to ensure that you have achieved an accurate gauge. When making very large projects, sometimes our tension can change which is why you should continue to measure your project as you work. 

With 6mm Hook

Ch 19 (36). 

  1. Dc in 4th ch from hook and each ch across. Turn.   – 17 (34) st
  2. Ch3. Dc in next st and each st across. Turn.   – 17 (34) st
  3. Ch3. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st (see Figure 1). Dc in 2nd skipped st (Note: This dc should wrap around the spdc you just worked. See Figure 2). Spdc in 1st skipped st (see Figure 3). *Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** across until there is only 1 st left unworked. Dc in last st. Turn.   – 17 (34) st
  4. Ch3. Dc in next st and each st across. Turn.   – 17 (34) st
  5. Ch3. Dc in next 3 sts. *Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. Dc in next 3 sts.** Repeat from * to ** across until you have only 1 st left unworked. Dc in last st. Turn.   – 17 (34) st

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

Repeat rows 2 – 5 until you have a total of 11 (22) rows. 

Your gauge swatch should measure 5 ¼” (9 ½”) wide by 5 ½” (11”) high. If your swatch does not meet gauge, try again with a different size hook. Width is important for this pattern but height is less so. If your width meets gauge but height is a little off, that is fine. 

Instructions

The body of this cardigan is worked in rows from the bottom up. Then, the shoulders are sewn together and the collar is added. Next, a simple sc border is added to the body. Finally, the sleeves are added, working in the round. 

Tip: If you find that your tension is loosening on the spdc rows, try decreasing your hook size on those rows. 

Lower Body

With 6mm Hook (or the hook used to obtain gauge)

Ch 137 (151, 165, 179, 195, 211, 227, 241, 253)

  1. (Wrong Side) Dc in 4th ch from hook and each ch across. Turn.   – 135 (149, 163, 177, 193, 209, 225, 239, 251) st
  2. (Right Side) Ch3. Dc in next st and each st across. Turn.   – 135 (149, 163, 177, 193, 209, 225, 239, 251) st
  3. –    5.   Repeat row 2.   – 135 (149, 163, 177, 193, 209, 225, 239, 251) st
  1. Ch3. Dc in next 9 (12, 12, 14, 15, 18, 19, 22, 25) sts.
    Ch1, sk 1 st. Dc in next 23 (23, 29, 29, 35, 35, 41, 41, 41) sts.
    *Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next 20 (24, 22, 27, 25, 30, 28, 32, 35) sts. Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next 23 (23, 29, 29, 35, 35, 41, 41, 41) sts.**
    Repeat from * to ** once.
    Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in last 10 (13, 13, 15, 16, 19, 20, 23, 26) sts. Turn. 
    – 135 (149, 163, 177, 193, 209, 225, 239, 251) st
  2. Ch3. Dc in next 9 (12, 12, 14, 15, 18, 19, 22, 25) sts.
    Ch1, sk 1 st. [Dc in next st. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. *Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** over next 12 (12, 18, 18, 24, 24, 30, 30, 30) sts. Dc in next st.]
    Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next 20 (24, 22, 27, 25, 30, 28, 32, 35) sts.
    Ch1, sk1 st. Repeat from [ to ].
    Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next 20 (24, 22, 27, 25, 30, 28, 32, 35) sts.
    Ch1, sk1 st. Repeat from [ to ].
    Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in last 10 (13, 13, 15, 16, 19, 20, 23, 26) sts. Turn. 
    – 135 (149, 163, 177, 193, 209, 225, 239, 251) st
  3. Repeat Row 6   – 135 (149, 163, 177, 193, 209, 225, 239, 251) st
  4. Ch3. Dc in next 9 (12, 12, 14, 15, 18, 19, 22, 25) sts.
    Ch1, sk 1 st. [Dc in next 4 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. *Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** over next 6 (6, 12, 12, 18, 18, 24, 24, 24) sts. Dc in next 4 sts.]
    Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next 20 (24, 22, 27, 25, 30, 28, 32, 35) sts.
    Ch1, sk1 st. Repeat from [ to ].
    Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next 20 (24, 22, 27, 25, 30, 28, 32, 35) sts.
    Ch1, sk1 st. Repeat from [ to ].
    Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in last 10 (13, 13, 15, 16, 19, 20, 23, 26) sts. Turn. 
    – 135 (149, 163, 177, 193, 209, 225, 239, 251) st

Gauge Check: Your project should now be approximately 4 ½” high and 42 ½” (47”,  51 ¼”, 55 ½”, 61”, 66”, 71”, 75”, 79”) wide. If your width is more than 1” (for smaller sizes) or 2” (for larger sizes) off, you may want to try again with a different sized hook. You may want to check your measurements periodically to make sure that you are staying on gauge. 

Repeat rows 6 – 9 until your sweater is long enough so that the top edge (working row) sits just below your underarm and the bottom edge sits where you would like the bottom hem to be. For reference, I worked 47 rows and my sweater is 25” long from my underarm to the bottom hem. Do not bind off. You will be continuing from the same point in the next section. 

Double Cross Cardigan - Free Crochet Sweater Pattern

Double Cross Cardigan – Free Crochet Sweater Pattern

Upper Body

We will now split off to create the arm holes. We will begin by working the right/left front, then work the back, and finish with the left/right front. When this section is complete, your project will look similar to Figure 1 below.  

Double Cross Cardigan - Free Crochet Sweater Pattern

Figure 1

Right/Left Front

Make sure you turned your work after finishing the last row of your Lower Body. 

The rows below are numbered to correspond with the rows above. Begin with the row that comes after the row you just finished on the lower body. If you finished the Lower Body on a repeat of row 6, you will begin the Upper Body with row 7. If you finished the Lower Body with a repeat of row 9, you will begin the Lower Body with row 6. 

  1. Ch3. Dc in next 9 (12, 12, 14, 15, 18, 19, 22, 25) sts.
    Ch1, sk 1 st. Dc in next 23 (23, 29, 29, 35, 35, 41, 41, 41) sts. Ch1, sk1 st.
    Dc in next 10 (13, 13, 15, 16, 19, 20, 23, 26) sts. Turn. 
    – 45 (51, 57, 61, 69, 75, 83, 89, 95) st
  2. Ch3. Dc in next 9 (12, 12, 14, 15, 18, 19, 22, 25) sts.
    Ch1, sk 1 st. Dc in next st. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. *Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** over next 12 (12, 18, 18, 24, 24, 30, 30, 30) sts. Dc in next st.
    Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next 10 (13, 13, 15, 16, 19, 20, 23, 26) sts. Turn. 
    – 45 (51, 57, 61, 69, 75, 83, 89, 95) st
  3. Ch3. Dc in next 9 (12, 12, 14, 15, 18, 19, 22, 25) sts.
    Ch1, sk 1 st. Dc in next 23 (23, 29, 29, 35, 35, 41, 41, 41) sts. Ch1, sk1 st.
    Dc in next 10 (13, 13, 16, 15, 19, 20, 23, 26) sts. Turn. 
    – 45 (51, 57, 61, 69, 75, 83, 89, 95) st
  4. Ch3. Dc in next 9 (12, 12, 14, 15, 18, 19, 22, 25) sts.
    Ch1, sk 1 st. Dc in next 4 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. *Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** over next 6 (6, 12, 12, 18, 18, 24, 24, 24) sts. Dc in next 4 sts.
    Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next 10 (13, 13, 15, 16, 19, 20, 23, 26) sts. Turn. 
    – 45 (51, 57, 61, 69, 75, 83, 89, 95) st

Repeat rows 6 – 9 until this section of your project is approximately 4 ¾” (5 ½”, 6”, 6 ½”, 7 ¼”,8”, 8 ½”, 9”, 9 ¾”, 10 ½”, 11”, 11 ¾”) high for a 9 ½” (10 ¾”, 12”, 13 ¼”, 14 ½”, 15 ¾”, 17”, 18 ¼”, 19 ½”, 21”, 22”, 23 ¾”) sleeve circumference. Remember that you can choose any sleeve size you want regardless of body size. You must end on a repeat of row 7 or row 9. Bind off, being sure to make note of how many rows you worked for this section. 

Back

Turn your work so that it is facing the same way it was when you began the Right/Left Front. Join your yarn in the next unworked stitch of the last row on the Lower Body. The rows below are numbered to correspond with the rows of the lower body, just like they did with the Right/Left Front. Therefore, you will begin with the same row that you did on the Right/Left Front. 

  1. Ch3. Dc in next 9 (10, 8, 11, 8, 10, 7, 8, 8) sts.
    Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next 23 (23, 29, 29, 35, 35, 41, 41, 41) sts.
    Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next 10 (11, 9, 12, 9, 11, 8, 9, 9) sts. Turn. 
    – 45 (47, 49, 55, 55, 59, 59, 61, 61) st
  2. Ch3. Dc in next 9 (10, 8, 11, 8, 10, 7, 8, 8) sts.
    Ch1, sk 1 st. Dc in next st. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. [*Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** over next 12 (12, 18, 18, 24, 24, 30, 30, 30) sts. Dc in next st.]
    Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next 10 (11, 9, 12, 9, 11, 8, 9, 9) sts. Turn. 
    – 45 (47, 49, 55, 55, 59, 59, 61, 61) st
  3. Ch3. Dc in next 9 (10, 8, 11, 8, 10, 7, 8, 8) sts.
    Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next 23 (23, 29, 29, 35, 35, 41, 41, 41) sts.
    Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next 10 (11, 9, 12, 9, 11, 8, 9, 9) sts. Turn. 
    – 45 (47, 49, 55, 55, 59, 59, 61, 61) st
  4. Ch3. Dc in next 9 (10, 8, 11, 8, 10, 7, 8, 8) sts.
    Ch1, sk 1 st. Dc in next 4 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. [*Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** over next 6 (6, 12, 12, 18, 18, 24, 24, 24) sts. Dc in next 4 sts.]
    Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next 10 (11, 9, 12, 9, 11, 8, 9, 9) sts. Turn. 
    – 45 (47, 49, 55, 55, 59, 59, 61, 61) st

Repeat rows 6 – 9 until you have worked the same amount of rows as you did for the Right/Left Front. Bind off. 

Left/Right Front

Turn your work so that it is facing the same way it was when you began the Right/Left Front. Join your yarn in the next unworked stitch of the last row on the Lower Body. The rows below are numbered to correspond with the rows of the lower body just like they did with the Right/Left Front and Back. Therefore, you will begin with the same row that you did on the Right/Left Front and Back. 

  1. Ch3. Dc in next 9 (12, 12, 14, 15, 18, 19, 22, 25) sts.
    Ch1, sk 1 st. Dc in next 23 (23, 29, 29, 35, 35, 41, 41, 41) sts. Ch1, sk1 st.
    Dc in next 10 (13, 13, 15, 16, 19, 20, 23, 26) sts. Turn. 
    – 45 (51, 57, 61, 69, 75, 83, 89, 95) st
  2. Ch3. Dc in next 9 (12, 12, 14, 15, 18, 19, 22, 25) sts.
    Ch1, sk 1 st. Dc in next st. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. *Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** over next 12 (12, 18, 18, 24, 24, 30, 30, 30) sts. Dc in next st.
    Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next 10 (13, 13, 15, 16, 19, 20, 23, 26) sts. Turn. 
    – 45 (51, 57, 61, 69, 75, 83, 89, 95) st
  3. Ch3. Dc in next 9 (12, 12, 14, 15, 18, 19, 22, 25) sts.
    Ch1, sk 1 st. Dc in next 23 (23, 29, 29, 35, 35, 41, 41, 41) sts. Ch1, sk1 st.
    Dc in next 10 (13, 13, 15, 16, 19, 20, 23, 26) sts. Turn. 
    – 45 (51, 57, 61, 69, 75, 83, 89, 95) st
  4. Ch3. Dc in next 9 (12, 12, 14, 15, 18, 19, 22, 25) sts.
    Ch1, sk 1 st. Dc in next 4 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. *Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** over next 6 (6, 12, 12, 18, 18, 24, 24, 24) sts. Dc in next 4 sts.
    Ch1, sk1 st. Dc in next 10 (13, 13, 15, 16, 19, 20, 23, 26) sts. Turn. 
    – 45 (51, 57, 61, 69, 75, 83, 89, 95) st

Repeat rows 6 – 9 until you have worked the same amount of rows as you did for the Right/Left Front and Back. Bind off. 

Double Cross Cardigan - Free Crochet Sweater Pattern

Double Cross Cardigan – Free Crochet Sweater Pattern

Shoulders

We will now sew the shoulders together. Lay your project flat with the right side facing you. Fold the left and right front panels in and use locking stitch markers to secure the points of the shoulders, locking the front and back layers together. Place another stitch marker in the 13 (12, 14, 16, 17, 18, 19, 18, 18)th st, counting inwards towards the neck, again locking the front and back layers together. Your project should now look similar to Figure 2 below. Whip stitch the shoulders together between the stitch markers (including the sts containing the st markers) as illustrated in Figure 2. Turn your project right side out. It should now look like Figure 3. 

Double Cross Cardigan - Free Crochet Sweater Pattern

Figure 2

Double Cross Cardigan - Free Crochet Sweater Pattern

Figure 3

Collar

You should now have a total of 83 (101, 107, 113, 125, 137, 149, 167, 179) sts running from the left front, over the back and across the right front. 

With the right side facing you, join your yarn in the 1st st. 

  1. Ch3. Dc in next st and each st, working across the front panel, then the back, and finally the other front panel. Turn.   – 83 (101, 107, 113, 125, 137, 149, 167, 179) st
  2. –    5.  Ch3. Dc in next st and each st across. Turn.   – 83 (101, 107, 113, 125, 137, 149, 167, 179) st
  1. Ch3. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. *Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** across until there is only 1 st left unworked. Dc in last st. Turn.   – 83 (101, 107, 113, 125, 137, 149, 167, 179) st
  2. Ch3. Dc in next st and each st across. Turn.   – 83 (101, 107, 113, 125, 137, 149, 167, 179) st
  3. Ch3. Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. *Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** across until there are only 4 sts left unworked. Dc in last 4 sts. Turn.   – 83 (101, 107, 113, 125, 137, 149, 167, 179) st
  4. Repeat row 5.   – 83 (101, 107, 113, 125, 137, 149, 167, 179) st
  5. Repeat Row 6.   – 83 (101, 107, 113, 125, 137, 149, 167, 179) st
  6. Ch3. Dc in next st and each st across. Do not turn.   – 83 (101, 107, 113, 125, 137, 149, 167, 179) st

Edging

We will now finish the edge of the sweater body. Begin by rotating your project ¼ turn clockwise. 

  1. Ch1. Place 2 sc in the side of each row, working downwards toward the bottom hem. Place 3 sc in the 1st corner. Place 1 sc in each st across the bottom hem. Place 3sc in the next corner. Place 2 sc in the end of each row working up towards the collar. Place 3 sc in the next corner. Place 1 sc in each st across the top of the collar. Place 2sc in the last corner. Ss to join to the 1st st. Bind off. 
Double Cross Cardigan - Free Crochet Sweater Pattern

Double Cross Cardigan – Free Crochet Sweater Pattern

Sleeves

The sleeves are worked in the round, but we will still turn at the end of each round. These sleeves are written to be tapered. 

With the right side facing you, join your yarn at the bottom of your arm hole. Work the instructions below that are marked with your chosen arm circumference. You may choose whichever sleeve size you want, regardless of body size. The instructions below will give you an upper arm circumference of 9 ½” (10 ¾”, 12”, 13 ¼”, 14 ½”, 15 ¾”, 17”, 18 ¼”, 19 ½”, 21”, 22”, 23 ¾”), and a wrist circumference of 7 ½” (7 ½”, 7 ½”,7 ½”, 9 ½”, 9 ½”, 9 ½”, 11 ¼”, 11 ¼”, 13 ¼”, 13 ¼”). 

  1. Ch3. Work 29 (33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 53, 57, 61, 65, 69, 73) dc sts evenly around the arm hole (for help with this, see the note below). Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74) st

Note: To help you spread your dc sts evenly over row 1, try dividing the armhole into 2 or 4 pieces. Place stitch markers to help you keep track of the sections. Then, divide the total number of sts into 2 or 4. Now you know how many are supposed to be in each section, which will help you spread them more evenly. 

  1. –    12.  Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74) st

From here, we will begin working decreases. Some sizes will decrease in certain rows while others will not. Be sure to pay attention and only follow the row instructions labeled with your size. 

  1. Sizes 9 ½” – 19 ½”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, n/a, n/a, n/a) st

    Sizes 21” – 23 2/4”: Ch3. Dc in next n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 30, 32, 34) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in next n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 31, 33, 35) sts. Dc2tog. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 64, 68, 72) st
  2. Sizes 9 ½”, 10 ¾”, 13 ¼”, 15 ¾”, 21”, 22”, 23 ¾”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 30 (34, n/a, 42, n/a, 50, n/a, n/a, n/a, 64, 68, 72) st

    Sizes 12”, 14 ½”, 17”, 18 ¼”, 19 ½”: Ch3. Dc in next n/a (n/a, 16, n/a, 20, n/a, 24, 26, 28, n/a, n/a, n/a) sts. Dc 2tog. Dc in next n/a (n/a, 17, n/a, 21, n/a, 25, 27, 29, n/a, n/a, n/a) sts. Dc 2tog. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, 36, n/a, 44, n/a, 52, 56, 60, n/a, n/a, n/a) st
  3. Sizes 9 ½” – 19 ½”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 30 (34, 36, 42, 44, 50, 52, 56, 60, n/a, n/a, n/a) st

    Sizes 21” – 23 ¼”: Ch3. Dc in next n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 29, 31, 33) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in next n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 30, 32, 34) sts. Dc2tog. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 62, 66, 70) st
  4. Sizes 10 ¾” & 13 ¼”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (34, n/a, 42, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st

    All Other Sizes: Ch3. Dc in next 12 (n/a, 15, n/a, 19, 22, 23, 25, 27, 28, 30, 32) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in next 13 (n/a, 16, n/a, 20, 23, 24, 26, 28, 29, 31, 33) sts. Dc2tog. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 28 (n/a, 34, n/a, 42, 48, 50, 54, 58, 60, 64, 68) st
  5. All Sizes: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 28 (34, 34, 42, 42, 48, 50, 54, 58, 60, 64, 68) st
  6. Sizes 9 ½” & 12”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 28 (n/a, 34, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st

    All Other Sizes: Ch3. Dc in next n/a (14, n/a, 18, 18, 21, 22, 24, 26, 27, 29, 31) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in next n/a (15, n/a, 19, 19, 22, 23, 25, 27, 28, 30, 32) sts. Dc2tog. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (32, n/a, 40, 40, 46, 48, 52, 56, 58, 62, 66) st
  7. Sizes 18 ¼”, 21”, 22” & 23 ¾”:  Ch3 Dc in next n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 23, n/a, 26, 28, 30) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in next n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 24, n/a, 27, 29, 31) sts. Dc2tog. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 50, n/a, 56, 60, 64) st

    All Other Sizes: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 28 (32, 34, 40, 40, 46, 48, n/a, 56, n/a, n/a, n/a) st
  8. Sizes 10 ¾”, 18 ¼”, 21”, 22”, 23 ¾”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (32, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 50, n/a, 56, 60, 64) st

    All Other Sizes: Ch3. Dc in next 11 (n/a, 14, 17, 17, 20, 21, n/a, 25, n/a, n/a, n/a) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in next 12 (n/a, 15, 18, 18, 21, 22, n/a, 26, n/a, n/a, n/a) sts. Dc2tog. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 26 (n/a, 32, 38, 38, 44, 46, n/a, 54, n/a, n/a, n/a) st
  9. Sizes 18 ¼”, 21”, & 23 ¾”: Ch3. Dc in next n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 22, n/a, 25, n/a, 29) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in next n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 23, n/a, 26, n/a, 30) sts. Dc2tog. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 48, n/a, 54, n/a, 62) st

    All Other Sizes: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 26 (32, 32, 38, 38, 44, 46, n/a, 54, n/a, 60, n/a) st
  10. Sizes 9 ½” & 12”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 26 (n/a, 32, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st

    All Other Sizes: Ch3. Dc in next n/a (13, n/a, 16, 16, 19, 20, 21, 24, 24, 27, 28) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in next n/a (14, n/a, 17, 17, 20, 21, 22, 25, 25, 28, 29) sts. Dc2tog. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (30, n/a, 36, 36, 42, 44, 46, 52, 52, 58, 60) st
  11. All Sizes: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 26 (30, 32, 36, 36, 42, 44, 46, 52, 52, 58, 60) st
  12. Size 10 ¾”:  Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (30, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st

    All Other Sizes: Ch3. Dc in next 10 (n/a, 13, 15, 15, 18, 19, 20, 23, 23, 26, 27) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in next 11 (n/a, 14, 16, 16, 19, 20, 21, 24, 24, 27, 28) sts. Dc2tog. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 24 (n/a, 30, 34, 34, 40, 42, 44, 50, 50, 56, 58) st
  13. Sizes 9 ½” – 17”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 24 (30, 30, 34, 34, 40, 42, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st

    Sizes 18 ¼” – 23 ¾”: Ch3. Dc in next n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 19, 22, 22, 25, 26) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in next n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 20, 23, 23, 26, 27) sts. Dc2otg. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 42, 48, 48, 54, 56) st
  14. Sizes 9 ½”, 12”, 18 ¼”, 19 ½”, 21”, & 22”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 24 (n/a, 30, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 42, 48, 48, 54, n/a) st

    All Other Sizes: Ch3. Dc in next n/a (12, n/a, 14, 14, 17, 18, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 25) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in next n/a (13, n/a, 15, 15, 18, 19, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 26) sts. Dc2tog. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (28, n/a, 32, 32, 38, 40, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 54) st
  15. Sizes 18 ¼”, 19 ½”, 21”, & 22”: Ch3. Dc in next n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 18, 21, 21, 24, n/a) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in next n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 19, 22, 22, 25, n/a) sts. Dc2tog. Ss to join to 1sts st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 40, 46, 46, 52, n/a) st

    All Other Sizes: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 24 (28, 30, 32, 32, 38, 40, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 54) st
  16. Size 10 ¾”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (28, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st

    All Other Sizes: Ch3. Dc in next 9 (n/a, 12, 13, 13, 16, 17, 17, 20, 20, 23, 24) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in next 10 (n/a, 13, 14, 14, 17, 18, 18, 21, 21, 24, 25) sts. Dc2tog. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 22 (n/a, 28, 30, 30, 36, 38, 38, 44, 44, 50, 52) st
  17. Size 23 ¾”: Ch3. Dc in next n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 23) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in next n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 24) sts. Dc2tog. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 50) st

    All Other Sizes: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 22 (28, 28, 30, 30 36, 38, 38, 44, 44, 50, n/a) st
  18. Sizes 9 ½” & 12”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 22 (n/a, 28, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st

    All Other Sizes: Ch3. Dc in next n/a (11, n/a, 12, 12, 15, 16, 16, 19, 19, 22, 22) st. Dc2tog. Dc in next n/a (12, n/a, 13, 13, 16, 17, 17, 20, 20, 23, 23) sts. Dc2tog. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (26, n/a, 28, 28, 34, 36, 36, 42, 42, 48, 48) st
  19. Sizes 17”, 18 ¼”, 19 ½”, 21” & 22”: Ch3. Dc in next n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 15, 15, 18, 18, 21, n/a) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in next n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 16, 16, 19, 19, 22, n/a) sts. Dc2tog. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 34, 34, 40, 40, 46, n/a) st

    All Other Sizes: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 22 (26, 28, 28, 28, 34, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 48) st
  20. Sizes 10 ¾”, 17”, 18 ¼”, 19 ½”, 21”, & 22”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (26, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 34, 34, 40, 40, 46, n/a) st

    All Other Sizes: Ch3. Dc in next 8 (n/a, 11, 11, 11, 14, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, /na, 21) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in next 9 (n/a, 12, 12, 12, 15, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, /na, 22) sts. Dc2tog. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 20 (n/a, 26, 26, 26, 32, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 46) st
  21.  Sizes 9 ½” – 15 ¾”: Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 20 (26, 26, 26, 26, 32, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a) st

    Sizes 17” – 23 ¾”: Ch3. Dc in next n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 14, 14, 17, 17, 20, 20) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in next n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 15, 15, 18, 18, 21, 21) sts. Dc2tog. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – n/a (n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, n/a, 32, 32, 38, 38, 44, 44) st
  22. All Sizes: Ch3. Dc in next 7 (10, 10, 10, 10, 13, 13, 13, 16, 16, 19, 19) sts. Dc2tog. Dc in next 8  (11, 11, 11, 11, 14, 14, 14, 17, 17, 20, 20) sts. Dc2tog. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 18 (24, 24, 24, 24, 30, 30, 30, 36, 36, 42, 42) st

All Sizes:

  1. Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 18 (24, 24, 24, 24, 30, 30, 30, 36, 36, 42, 42) st
  2. Ch3. Dc in next 2 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. *Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 18 (24, 24, 24, 24, 30, 30, 30, 36, 36, 42, 42) st
  3. Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 18 (24, 24, 24, 24, 30, 30, 30, 36, 36, 42, 42) st
  4. Ch2 (does not count as a st). Sk1 st. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st st. Dc in next 3 sts. *Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. Dc in next 3 sts. ** Repeat from * to ** around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 18 (24, 24, 24, 24, 30, 30, 30, 36, 36, 42, 42) st
  5. Ch3. Dc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 18 (24, 24, 24, 24, 30, 30, 30, 36, 36, 42, 42) st
  6. Ch3. Dc in next 2 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st. *Dc in next 3 sts. Sk 2 sts. Spdc in next st. Dc in 2nd skipped st. Spdc in 1st skipped st.** Repeat from * to ** around. Ss to join to 1st st. Turn.   – 18 (24, 24, 24, 24, 30, 30, 30, 36, 36, 42, 42) st
  7. Ch1. Sc in 1st st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st st. Bind off.   – 18 (24, 24, 24, 24, 30, 30, 30, 36, 36, 42, 42) st

If you choose to add buttons to your cardigan, you can do so now. I recommend adding a clear button to the inside near one of the shoulders as illustrated in Figure 4. You should choose a clear button or one that is a similar colour as your cardigan. Then you may add a larger, more decorative button to the outside of the other shoulder. Be sure that your button isn’t too large to fit through the spaces between your stitches. 

Another option would be to close your cardigan with a shawl pin as pictured in Figure 5. 

Double Cross Cardigan - Free Crochet Sweater Pattern

Figure 4

Double Cross Cardigan - Free Crochet Sweater Pattern

Figure 5

Weave in your ends, and you’re done!

I hope you love your new crochet cardigan sweater, and I look forward to seeing all of your beautiful pictures on Ravelry!  

If you’d like to know when I post new patterns and tutorials, head on over to my Facebook and Instagram and give me a like and a follow!

If you enjoyed The Transitions Poncho – Free Crochet Poncho Pattern, you may want to check out my other designs!

Double Cross Cardigan - Free Crochet Sweater Pattern

Double Cross Cardigan – Free Crochet Sweater Pattern

And until next time… Happy Hooking! 😉

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