The Spring Blooms Slouch – Free Crochet Pattern is copyrighted by I Need It Crochet. You may not copy, share, change, or sell the pattern itself. Also, you may not claim this pattern as your own. All pictures contained in this pattern fall under the copyright and may not be used.
Finished items made from the Spring Blooms Slouch – Free Crochet Pattern belong to you, and you may do what you wish with them. If you choose to sell them on Etsy, I would very much appreciate it if you credited me as the pattern designer.
Or… Just scroll down to see it for free!
I designed this slouch as a mate for the Spring Blooms Bandana Cowl. I was inspired by the tulips that come up in the spring, and I wanted to use stitches that would look like tulips do just before and just after they have opened.
Writing this pattern in the round proved quite tricky. As such, this hat is written as one size, with instructions to tighten it at the band.
Finished Sizes:
Hat band measures 21”-23”, depending on how tightly you crochet the last 2 rows.
The body of the hat is meant to fit loosely. If you would like a smaller/tighter hat, you can try going down a hook size.
Finished Length: 9”
Materials:
I used Caron Simply Soft, which is 100% Acrylic, #4 Worsted weight yarn.
Any yarn of similar weight would work.
Approximately 178 (179, 180) yds.
5.5mm Hook
Stitch Markers
Yarn Needle
Scissors
Measuring Tape
Abbreviations:
Sk = Skip
Sp = Space
St = Stitch
Ss = Slip Stitch
Ch = Chain
Sc = Single Crochet
Hdc = Half Double Crochet
Dc= Double Crochet
Ps =Puff Stitch (See the Tutorial Here)
Fp = Flower Puff Stitch (See the Tutorial Here)
3rd LO = 3rd Loop Only (See the Tutorial Here)
BLO = Back Loop Only
Gauge Swatch:
There will be two points in the pattern where you can measure your work to check the gauge
Notes:
Ch1 at the beginning of a row is never considered a stitch.
Ch1 between sts is always considered a stitch.
I have provided tutorials on the blog for the puff stitch, flower puff stitch, the picot stitch, and working into the 3rd LO.
A puff stitch and a flower puff stitch each count as 2 sts.
If a row/round begins with “Working into the 3rd LO/BLO” that means the entire row/round is worked in the 3rd LO/BLO. If this instruction is found in the middle of a row/round, it means that you work into the 3rd LO/BLO until instructed otherwise.
I have added many pictures to help you along the way.
Instructions
This pattern is worked from the top down in the round, but you will be turning after each round is completed. To make this pattern easier to work, you will be starting each round in the 2nd stitch. This is the stitch immediately to the left of where you placed your slip stitch in the previous row. If you look at figure 1 below, you will see that I have ch1 and worked my 1st hdc into the next st. When you do this, you must remember that the stitch where you placed your slip stitch in the previous row is where you will place your last stitch (see figure 2).
Figure 1
Figure 2
With 5.5mm hook, make a magic ring.
1. Ch1. Work 7 hdc into ring and pull tight. Ss to join to 1st hdc. Turn. – 7 st
2. Ch1. 2hdc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st hdc. Turn. – 14 st
3. Ch1. *Hdc in next st, 2hdc in next st. ** Repeat from * to ** around. Ss to join to 1st hdc (use alternative join method). Turn. – 21 st
4. Working in 3rd LO: Ch1. *Sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st. ** Repeat from * to ** around. Ss to join to 1st sc. Turn. – 28 st
5. Ch1. *Sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st. ** Repeat from * to ** around. Ss to join to 1st sc. Turn. – 35 st
6. Ch1. *Sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st. ** Repeat from * to ** around. Ss to join to 1st sc. Turn. – 42 st
7. Ch1. *Sc in next 5 sts. Work ps into st as marked in figure 3. Sk 1 st (which will be covered by ps). ** Repeat from * to ** around. Ss to join to 1st sc. Turn. Note: If you are having trouble telling where to put your 1st sc after the ps, try adding a stitch marker to the stitch labelled with the M in figure 3. – 49 st
Figure 3
Gauge check: Your work should now measure 4” across. If your work is not close to gauge, try again with a different sized hook.
8. Ch1. *Sc in next 6 sts, 2sc in next st. ** Repeat from * to ** around. Ss to join to 1st sc. Turn. – 56 st
9. Ch1. *Hdc in next 7 sts, 2hdc in next st. ** Repeat from * to ** around. Ss to join to 1st hdc (use alternative join method). Turn. – 63 st
10. Working in 3rd LO: Ch1.* [Hdc in next st, ch1, sk1 st.] Repeat instructions in [] 3 more times. Hdc, ch1 (do not sk1). ** Repeat from * to ** around. Ss to join to 1st hdc. Turn. – 70 st
11. Ch1. *Hdc in next 9 sts (ch1 sp is considered a st), 2hdc in next st. ** Repeat from * to ** around. Ss to join to 1st hdc (use alternative join method). Turn. – 77 st
12. Working in 3rd LO: Ch1. Sc in next 10 st, 2sc in next st. Ss to join to 1st sc. Turn. – 84 st
Gauge check: Your work should now measure 6 ¾” across. If your work is not close to gauge, try again with a different sized hook.
13. Ch1. Sc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st sc. Turn. – 84 st
14. Repeat row 13.
15. Ch1. *Sc in next 4 sts. Work fp over 3 sts as marked in figure 4. Sk 2sts (which will be covered by fp)** Repeat from * to ** around. Ss to join to 1st sc. Turn. Note: If you are having trouble telling where to put your 1st sc after the fp, try adding a stitch marker to the stitch labelled with the M in figure 4. – 84 st
Figure 4
16. Ch1. Sc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st sc. Turn. – 84 st
17. Ch1. Hdc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st hdc (use alternative join method). Turn. – 84 st
18. Working in 3rd LO: Ch1. *Hdc in next st, ch1, sk1 st. ** Repeat from * to ** around. SS to join to 1st hdc. Turn. – 84 st
19. Ch1. Hdc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st hdc (use alternative join method). Turn. – 84 st
20. Working in 3rd LO: Ch1. Sc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st sc. Turn. – 84 st
21. Ch1. Sc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st sc. Turn. – 84 st
22. Repeat row 21.
23. Ch1. *Work ps into st as marked in figure 5. Sk 2 st (which will be covered by ps). Sc in next 4 sts. **Repeat from * to ** around. Ss to join to 1st sc. Turn. Note: If you are having trouble telling where to put your 1st sc after the ps, try adding a stitch marker to the stitch labelled with the M in figure 5. – 84 st
Figure 5
24. Ch1. Sc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st sc. Turn. – 84 st
25. Ch1. Hdc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st hdc (use alternative join method). Turn. – 84 st
26. Working in 3rd LO: Ch1. *Hdc in next st, ch1, sk1 st. ** Repeat from * to ** around. SS to join to 1st hdc. Turn. – 84 st
27. Ch1. Hdc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st hdc (use alternative join method). Turn. – 84 st
28. Working in 3rd LO: Ch1. Sc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st sc. Turn. – 84 st
29. Ch1. Sc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st sc. Turn. – 84 st
30. Repeat row 29.
31. Ch1. Sc in next 2 sts. Work fp over 3 sts as marked in figure 6. Sk 2sts (which will be covered by fp). Sc in next 4 sts, work fp over 3 sts as marked in figure 6. Sk 2sts. ** Repeat from * to ** until there are only 2 sts left unworked. Sc in last 2 sts. Ss to join to 1st sc. Turn. – 84 st
Figure 6
32. Ch1. Sc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st sc. Turn. – 84 st
33. Ch1. Hdc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st hdc (use alternative join method). Turn. – 84 st
Hook decrease: At this point, you will decrease your hook size by 1-2 sizes to tighten the band. This part is totally up to you and how tight or loose you would like your hat band to be. If you’re making a large size hat, you may not want to decrease your hook size.
34. Working in 3rd LO: Ch1. Hdc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st hdc. Turn. – 84 st
35. Working in the BLO: Ch1. Hdc in next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st hdc (use alternative join method). Turn. – 84 st
36. Working in 3rd LO: Ss into next st and each st around. Ss to join to 1st ss. Bind off. – 84 st
Weave in all your ends, and you’re done!
I hope you love your new slouchy hat, and I look forward to seeing all of your beautiful pictures on Ravelry!
If you’d like to know when I post new patterns and tutorials, head on over to my Facebook and Instagram and give me a like and a follow!
If you enjoyed The Spring Blooms Slouch – Free Crochet Pattern, you may want to check out my other designs!
And until next time… Happy Hooking! 😉
